Bond Machine Knitting - Patterns for Animal Garments

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 10:12:04 -0500
From: Christine Shibata (
Subject: [BOND] Schnauzer Coat Pattern

Well, here I am again, out of lurking mode, this time bearing gifts.
I've worked out a pattern for a coat, knit it up and written out the
instructions. It even fits!! I have problems with attachments not being
legible to PC users (I'm on a Mac) so I've copied and pasted below. Hope
it's not too big for posting. Enjoy and let me know how yours turns out.
Chris in Waterloo, Ontario.

SUZIE'S WINTER COAT (designed for the ISM, hand knitting or any Chunky

BACKGROUND: In mid-September 1997, we were fortunate to be chosen as
adoptive parents for a 3-year old Miniature Schnauzer named 'Suzie'.
South-Western Ontario is  damp and  c-o-o-o-ld in the winter, and our
Suzie arrived with only one light-weight coat. As she will be walking at
least twice a day, every day, she needed some 'woolies'. She uses a
"LUPI" harness for walking, and needs a coat that will accomodate this
type of harness.  As she is also a bit fussy about straps, buttons
etc..., I attempted to create a coat which would be easy to make, easy
to put on and take off, and would cover 'most of Suzie' in inclement
weather. The result follows.  I am still working on a bonnet or hood
that could be buttoned or attached with velcro but that will have to
wait until after this weekend (Canadian Thanksgiving) as we have guests
coming. I will also be making two more coatsusing chunky and bulky
yarns, and will pass on the changes for each yarn type as soon as I have
them made up. Please feel free to pass this pattern on if you like it.   

This coat is knit from the bottom (dog's tail) up. Directions are for
both hand and machine knitters (Bond Incredible Sweater Machine (ISM) or
any chunky knitter). Hand knitters may ignore the directions for hanging
weighted hems and things such as "end carriage left", unless you are
hand-knitting while riding in a horse-drawn vehicle, which is not
unlikely where I live ('Mennonite Country' as the travel books call it.
:o))  If you can't figure out the instructions,  or have any questions,
just send an E-mail to me, Chris, at "" and I will
do my best to help. Happy knitting :o)

Worsted weight yarn (double knitting) or equivalent - about 75 grams
4 buttons about 1/2 to 3/4 inch across, sewing thread and needle.
Gauge= 4 inches=17 stitches and 29 rows AFTER BLOCKING
Measurements= - centre chest to hip (measure along flank)- about 15
- - around the body at chest (16 inches PLUS 2.5 inch- or to fit- strap) 
Stitches used = Body - hand-knit = stockinette (plain knit) and 1x1 rib
for neck												
- - machine knit = plain knit, 1x1 ribbing done by hand
= Edging and straps - single crochet, slip stitch
Tools =  Bond I.S.M. - using plate #3     OR
 	Hand knit -1 pair of 4 m.m knitting needles or whatever you need for
the gauge
FOR BOTH - Crochet hook - size 3.5 m.m. 

 OPTIONAL - Dog =  1 (one) Mini Schnauzer - 16-18 lb. or size to fit. 
If a dog this size is not available, try a very large cat!  :o))

INSTRUCTIONS:  BODY - Cast on 51 stitches. (For ISM, use waste yarn then
knit 6 rows and switch to main yarn or use a closed edge cast-on). Knit
1 row (carriage right). Now start the increases towards the head by
increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 2nd row. Knit 2 rows straight.
Repeat this pattern - increase 1 stitch each end on one row then knit 2
straight - until you have 67 stitches. This should be row 23. Now knit
straight for 54 rows or to row 73. The work should measure 9 inches at
this point which is the distance from the bottom of the coat to the
point where the neck ribbing will start. If your doggie is a bit long in
the back, add rows now to give the extra length. End carriage left.
Now divide for the neck. Let's call this the Great Divide! You need 23
stitches for each shoulder and the middle 22 get cast off. If you are
hand knitting, knit 23, bind off 22, then hand knit the last 23
stitches. If machine knitting, manually knit the first 23 by pushing the
needles out, catching yarn, and then pulling back to complete the stitch
by hand, then cast off the next 22 by hand. Then, either manually knit
the last 23 as the first, or push the first 23 you have knit off into
forward holding position, replace the carriage just to the left of the
last 23 needles, thread yarn and knit to end. Either way works fine. Set
row counter to zero.
Working each side separately, work 1 row of 23 stitches even. For hand
knitting, just work on the first 23 stitches on the needle, ignoring the
rest and turn. For machine, make sure the first 23 needles of the Great
Divide are pushed forward completely so they are out of the way, and
hang claw weights on the side you will be working on. 	
*Knitting on only those 23 stitches, and GO SLOWLY, knit the first row
(Trust me, I know. Slow is the only way to go for the first row on
machines!).  Ensure counter is set to 1. You should now have the
carriage on the left.
Now you have 1 row done, the rest is a breeze. Knit 1 row, decreasing 1
stitch (full decreasing - decrease one stitch in from the edge - is
neater) on the neck edge. Knit 2 straight. Repeat until there are 13
stitches left. Knit 1 row straight then cast off.** 

For hand knitting, repeat from * to ** using the other 23 stitches on
the needles and finish as for machine. 

For machine knitters, after casting off, push the remaining 23 needles
into forward working position, re-thread carriage, and set carriage to
right.  Knit 1 row SLOWLY. Now follow the instructions for the first
shoulder and cast off.

NECK: Using knitting needles, pick up the stitches around the neck edge
(total 60). Work 8 rows of 1x1 ribbing (knit 1, purl 1) and bind off. If
your doggie tolerates a deeper neckline, you can add a few rows here,
but remember to adjust the spacing later for the button loops to
match!).  If you are really into machine knit ribbing, you could rehang
the neck edge, knit 8 rows, drop every second stitch back 8 rows,
manually reforming each of the dropped stitches to form ribbing, cursing
and swearing as you lose track of the stitches, etc... etc..., but hey,
who am I to tell you how to do it? (Can you tell I used to hand knit
FOR CROCHET(y) PEOPLE: single crochet around neck. Chain 3 and turn.
Work 1 DC into each SC around neck. Chain 3 and turn. Work 1 forward
post stitch around second stitch from start, then 1 backward post stitch
around third stitch. repeat this to end of row. Repeat this row 4 times
more to form crochet ribbing. It should measure about 1.25 inches wide.
If not add or rip out 1 row to adjust. When done, end off. 
FOR EVERYONE:  EDGING AND STRAP:  Starting at left neck front (when
viewed from top of dog), purl side facing, work in single crochet around
to other side of neck, working 3 SC in the corners for a smooth edge and
adjusting your stiches to keep the work flat. (For machine knitters
using waste yarn cast on, single crochet into the stitches of the first
row of main colour  from the purl side.) Turn. SC in first stitch.
*Chain 6, or whatever is needed to go over the buttons you have. Skip 3
stitches, single crochet in the next and following 2 stitches**. Repeat
from * to ** twice. You now have 3 button loops. Continue on down the
long side edge in single crochet, adjusting the stitches to keep the
coat flat as needed. When you get to the point located about 9.5 inches
below the button loops on the long side edge of the piece, start
counting! Single crochet into the next 6 stitches, chain 1, turn, single
crochet into the next 5 stitches. This makes a 6 stitch wide strip.
Repeat until there are 10 rows or a strap long enough to just reach the
other side of the coat when on your fuzzy friend. On the final row, SC
into first stitch, chain 5 or 6, SC into last stitch. End off securely
as the loop takes a lot of stress. Re-attach yarn at base of strap and
continue the SC edging until you reach the starting point. End off.  DO
Darn in loose ends, and block lightly. Sew three buttons opposite the
neck loops and one opposite the tummy strap. Voila! C'est fini! Now take
someone warm and fuzzy for a walk. Enjoy.    
 Chris Shibata, Waterloo, Ontario, Canada.


Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 04:25:07 -0700
Subject: Re: [BOND] re: Puppy sweaters

At 12:09 AM 10/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Well, I need a BIG doggie sweater.   I have a Great Dane who gets cold every
>winter.  In fact we keep a kerosene heater lit just for him.  It would be
>really great if I could make something for him to help keep his aging back
>warm.  That way he won't be so stiff.  I am not good at making something from
>scratch.  I need some kind of pattern.  How do I go about this?  Anyone got
>any suggestions?   Thanks.  Syl
Every once in a while a lightbulb comes on over my head.  

I just saw a dog show on TV, and a dane had a crocheted jacket type thing
on that just hung off it's sides.

I started thinking, how about modifying a child's cardigan pattern for the
dog?  Make all the pieces, and do the sleeves like the basic sweater
pattern from the beginner's book (top down after the shoulders are joined),
and then do NOT seam the sleeves when you put it together and seam the
sides.  Instead, how about putting buttons or snaps so that it will be
easier to get the pooch's feet through the sleeves.  Then snap or button
him or her into their cardigan sleeves and front and go for a walk.

You could use an infant's sweater pattern for smaller dogs, and this will
give you an idea as to how big the sweater will be when done, and you can
measure your dog and make any adjustments in tension accordingly.

Of course, I think you should make them short sleeved so the dog doesn't
get caught in them when walking, and if you leave the ribbing off, it won't
bind his/her legs either.

Think it will work?

Julie (the Styx fan)


Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 13:57:32 -0700
From: Patrick & Linda Boudreau (
Subject: [BOND] Puppy Sweaters

I am guilty of not making my little puppy a sweater so today I will
solve that problem, I am going to make the sweater on the Clifford
Williams site

	It is designed for the AG doll, but my puppy is very small.  I will use
velcro instead of buttons on the inside and put the wooden buttons on
the outside.  Leave room for a leash.  I also plan to knit some little
stay on boots for her, she is getting old and is just a little thing.

	For those into designing for the pets in their life, these are the
measurement you need to take, bearing in mind that all dogs are
different and the design you want, a great way also to use up tension

	Measure from neck to top of rear end where tail starts.  Measure around
the neck, allow at least two inches here for breathing room.  Measure
around the fullest part of the body, allow two inches here for ease.  A
simple version is a straight rectangle of fabric that you pick up on one
end and rib, go to the centre and add tabs with knitting and attach
velcro so that they attach underneath.  Puppies and little or big dogs
don't like sweaters so keep it loose.

Bonding Buddy,


Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 13:00:01 -0700
Subject: Re: [BOND] Horse rugs (blankets)

Nebraska Goat Products wrote:
> Okay, this might seem sort of stupid, but I have a lot of horses. They
> work hard every day and need to be blanketed (rugged) when we're
> finished for the day. Just about all of my rugs are worn out and they
> are very expensive to replace (I need 15). I was wondering about making
> some on the Bond if I used 100% wool and slightly felted it when I was
> finished to help keep out the wind. Or maybe I could line it with
> something? Does anyone have  ideas about how to go about a project this
> large? I'm still pretty new to the BOND. I've made one sweater dress and
> a bunch of curtains.
> --
> Bobbi Shaw Brewer

I don't know a thing about horses but how about this....Take some
measurements from your favorite of the old blankets...They are just big
sqaures or rectangles right?......Using a chunky wieght yarn for added
warmth and thickness knit a basic stockingnette stitch  square (or
rectangle to match)...You will have to do a gauge swatch to get an idea
of stitches and rows per inch so you can estimate how many needles to CO
and how many rows to knit....You may have to do it in pieces and then I
would just use the seam as you go technique..... You could rib the edges
or single crochet them...Basically make a simple afghan...Then line it
with something nice, soft and warm like flannel...Or 100% wool felt...Or
something...Hope this helps...Gina


Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998
From: Shirley Smith (
Subject: [BOND] Kiddie sweaters

	I just finished six kiddie sweaters. No, not for children; for 
goat kids. My daughter in Tennessee raises goats and I had made her 
one small sweater as a joke last Spring during birthing season. She 
swears it saved a small goat's (kid's) life during an unusual cold snap. 
Nothing would do but that I must make her some more. She wants 12 
of them!
	Each one takes about a half an hour to make on the bond and 
is a wonderful way to use up odds and ends of yarn. My thanks to Jan 
Bailie for her encouragement and suggestions.

Kiddie Sweater 
(for newborn goat babies)

Gauge: 16 stitches per inch
This is made in two parts: a body piece and a chest piece and then sewn 

Body: cast on 40 stitches with e-stitch cast-on. work in rib for 3 inches 
(about 10 rows). Knit even to 16 inches (about 55 rows, not including 
ribbing). Cast off 1 stitch each end for 5 rows. Bind off.

Chest piece: cast on 5 stitches with e-stitch. Increase 2 stitches each end 
every other row to 3-1/2 inches (13 stitches on needles). Knit even for 
8 inches (about 28 rows). End in 4 rows ribbing. Bind off.

Finishing: Seam neck ribbing on body piece. Place point of chest piece at 
ribbing seam and seam down both sides to the increase stop on the chest 
piece. Leave 2 inch opening on each side (for front legs) and continue 
seam to including ribbing on chest piece. 
Note: chest piece ribbing will not go to end of body piece.

Shirley in Charleston


Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 16:41:12 EDT
From: Myrgor (
Subject: [BOND] Dog, Horse, Goat blanket ideas

I posted an idea privately to Bobbie about making a pattern from one of her
old horse blankets, then knitting a large "blank" and felting it and then
cutting new blankets to the exact size needed. The other blanket posts have
given me an idea about quick easy personalization.

Why not knit a long length of i-cord (esp. if you have the magicord machine),
then arrange on the blanket into cursive writing spelling out the name
desired, pinning in place, and then sewing to the blanket by hand? 

Just a thought. Would be cute for kid's sweaters too.



Date: Sat, 25 Oct 1997 09:13:20 -0500
From: "Dean Yotter" (
Subject: [BOND] Doggy sweater for the Bond

Here's a doggy sweater I've adapted to make on the Bond.  I'm at my SIL's
and done 2 for her little dog that is a mini poodle-chihuahua mix.  She is
18" around the rib cage and her body length is about a foot.  If your dog
differs by much, you will have to alter.

This sweater is knitted from the tail forward and divides into 3 sections
just behind the legs.  It joins together again to knit the neck and this
allows for the decreases in the center section that end up on the dogs

Doggy Sweater for the Bond

Worted weight yarn - one 3.5 or 4 oz skein

Using KP2 and WY, hang the hem and CO 64 st using a closed edge (e-wrap)

K 8 rows, then convert to 2x2 ribbing.

Change to KP3.  Knit 18 rows (3") (May do this section up to 30 rows or 5"
depending on the size of the dog and how far back you want it to come.)
End COR.

Now you divide for the leg openings.  Bring the outer 13 sts on each side
to HP.
Remove the center 38 sts to WY or a stitch holder and remove from the
needles.  Push them back to NWP.  Push the 13 sts on the left side behind
the latches against the machine so they don't come off the needles as you
On the right 13 needles, start COR and K25 rows, ending COL.  Leave a 30"
Push needles into HP with work behind latches against the machine.
Your hem is now hanging way at an angle.  Don't worry!

Now bring the 13 sts on the left into FWP and start COR using a new strand
of yarn, K 26 rows, ending COR.  Leave a 30" tail.  (You will use the tail
to seam the shoulder seam along the decrease line and then work an edge
around the leg opening.)  Move these needles to HP, push work against
machine and put green cards in front of the needle butts to hold them in
place.  I knitted the center section with them there to keep th needles
from migrating out in the way.

Rehang the center 38 sts on the center needles.  Start COR with a new
strand of yarn and K 12 rows - this is the length of the leg opening, about
Now decrease 1 st at each side on the next row.
Work 1 row even.  Repeat this for 13 rows.  You have decreased 7 times for
a total of 14 sts.  Your carriage is on the left.  Move the 13 sts on the
right side over 7 needles to close the gap caused by the decreases.  Now
knit row 14, joining the two sections.  This gets the yarn over to the
right side.  Move the 13 sts on the left side over 7 needles to close that
gap.  Knit 4 rows.  This is the neck edge.  Work 12 rows and convert to
ribbing.  That gives about 2"  that will fold over.  You can work more or
less.  Leave enough tail to sew the seam down the chest.

Finishing:  Sew down the decrease line, leaving a 2" leg opening.  Working
from the wrong side, work an edging of crocheted slip st, not sc, all
around.  This edges it, but doesn't close down the hole.  Do the other
side.  Sew the center chest seam together.  Try on dog.

Ann in Tenn
Only I'm in Kansas right now in the middle of a blizzard!  I'm going to go
home to Tenn where it's warm!!!  8-)


Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 12:19:41 -0600
From: "Ann Yotter" (
Subject: [BOND] Hat and scarf for a lawn Goose

Hi all,  Just dressed my poor naked goose for the winter in
a hat and scarf. The cement goose was a big thing where I used to live and I
imported one with me. (People think I'm nuts)  He looks a little cold in
the winter so I made a hat for him.  This is sized to fit the large goose
(there are at least 3 sizes)

Goose hat with ties
Use worsted weight yarn and KP3.
Cast on 36 sts using WY or open CO.
Knit 11 rows, then rehang the first row to make a narrow hem
and knit down.
Work another 11 or 12 rows.
Move every other st over 1 needle and knit row - 18 sts left.

Now remove sts to WY or holder.  Leave a long end to gather
top and seam with.
With P side facing you count in 6 sts from the edge of the
hem and hang the folded edge of the hat on 5 needles. (You might use a claw
weight here.  I removed 2 weight bars from the hem and supported one end
with an empty needle at the other edge.)

 Work 2 rows, then decr 2 sts so there are 3 needles left. 
Work 3 rows on the 3 sts.  Reduce the sts to 1 needle and do 2 rows.  Use a
crochet hook to chain thru this st to make a tie about 6" long.  End
off.  Make a 2nd earflap and tie 6 sts from the other end of the hat.
Remove weighted hem, gather top of hat and sew seam.  Put a
pom on top. 
Stuff with a couple plastic newspaper sleeves to shape the
hat on the goose and tie on under its chin.


CO 20 sts with closed edge.  I worked about 100 rows, then
folded in 1/2 (10 st wide) and seamed the scarf, turned inside out and
fringed the ends. 
I think it was a little short for that fat-necked goose, so
I crossed it in front and tacked it together with some yarn.  If you want to
actually tie it, you better work 125-150 rows.

Ann in Tenn


Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 23:28:25 -0500
From: "Ann Yotter" 
Subject: [BOND] goose sweater

OK, you guys finally got me going.  I did a sweater for my goose and it
didn't turn out too bad for an off-the-top-of-my-head, winged-it project. 
For those of you with a goose, let me warn you, they come in a bunch of
sizes.  I have 3 different ones, a large that is the most common 
(Simplicity makes patterns to fit it), then a medium one and the one I did
the sweater to fit is a plastic one like Mary Maxim had in their catalog. 
He is supposed to fit clothes for the large goose, but is really just a
touch smaller and leaner so those clothes fit a little sloppy.  He stands
24.5" high and measures the same around at his fattest.

So if you have the large cement goose, you may want to add just a few
stitches to make it a little bigger.  You can do some fairisle on this
above the ribbing before the decrease rows.  I intend to make one with MTSU
duplicate st-ed on it (where both my boys go).

I used KP3 and worsted wgt yarn.
Cast on 85 sts.  Work 8 rows and convert to ribbing.
(I tried doing a doubled mock rib, just to try the technique.  Not bad,
beats latching up, but need to figure out how to minimize the holes between
the mock rib and the main work.)
Work even to row 45.
Decrease the number of sts by 1/4 by doubling up every 3rd st across the
row. (Use a garter bar or rehang after running onto waste yarn or a long
knitting needle)
Knit to row 52.
Decrease the number of sts by 1/3 by doubling up every other st.
This leaves about 1/2 of the original number.
Knit to row 60.
Now work a neck finish.  Do some ribbing to make a crew neck, or I did 20
rows to make a turtleneck.
Seam up the back.

I thought it needed a few rows extra in the front just before the neckline
to allow for the extra curve that sticks out on the neck.  Next time I will
do the following in place of rows 43-4 and 50-1:
*Place the far 1/3 of the needles on the row opposite the carriage in HP. 
Knit across the row on the first 2/3 of the needles.
Place the far 1/3 of the row at the other side opposite the carriage in HP.
 This should leave the middle 1/3 working.  Knit across, being sure to wrap
the yarn around the last needle in HP before doing the row.
Wrap the yarn around the last needle in HP next to the working needles,
bring the needles in HP on the far side opposite the carriage to FWP,
latches open, and knit across.
Bring the remaining needles in HP to FWP and knit the complete row - all
needles back in work.**
  You have just added 2 short rows to the center 1/3 under the goose's neck
so the neckline will not pull down in front on his neck. This short rowing
between the * and **will replace rows 43-44 and 50-51.


Let's get those geese ready for winter!  Don't forget a matching hat - see
Ann in Tenn


Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 17:21:21 -0500
From: "Ann Yotter" 
Subject: [BOND] Wings for the goose sweater

OK, for all you purists who have to have wings on your geese, here it is.

Worsted wgt yarn, KP3
Leave long tails when starting and ending to stitch up the wing.
Hang a small hem.
Cast on 24 sts and knit a few rows of WY.
Change to the MC (sweater color) and work 17 rows.
Pull the work and needles forward away from the bed and crochet a chain
across the needles behind the latches.  Take the last st off onto a
transfer tool, place the last loop of the chain on the needle, bring the
yarn end down under the last needle, then replace the last st on that
needle.  Move the carriage to that side and knit 1 more row - 18 total. 

 The chain made an edging along the bottom of the sleeve.  You could just
knit 18 rows and leave it off.  I thought it was a nice demarcation line
instead of trying to do a ribbing of some sort.

Use the 3 prong tool and move the 3 outside sts over 1 needle toward the
center,on each side - 2 sts decreased.
Change to WC - wing color (probably white, unless you have a Canada goose)
Knit 2 rows on 22 sts.Use 2 prong tool and move the 2 outside sts in 1 st -
2 sts decreased.
Knit 2 rows on 20 sts. Decrease 2 more sts.
Knit 2 rows on 18 sts. Decrease 2 more sts.
Knit 3 rows on 16 sts. 
Now decrease 3 sts on each side as follows:
Move st 3 onto needle 2, st 5 onto needle 4 and st 7 onto needle 6.  Pick
up the sts on needles 8,6, and 4 onto a 3 prong tool and move all st in to
close the gaps.  Repeat on the opposite side.
Knit 2 rows on 10 sts, decrease 2 sts.
Work 1 row on 8 sts. Decrease 2 sts.
Work 1 row on 6 sts.

Using the 3 prong tools, remove the left 3 sts onto the tool in the normal
manner.  Pick up the right 3 sts by inserting the 3 prong tool from the
back of the work under the hooks  and removing the needles from the sts by
pushing them first out so the sts are behind the latches, then pushing them
all the way in.  You now have 6 sts on the 2 tools with one tool going one
way and the other tool going the other
Rehang 3 sts with the right side facing you, then fold the fabric over so
the right sides are together and rehang the other 3 sts on the same
needles.  (Notice that both times you can use the tool to transfer the sts
normally.)  Push the back sts behind the latches, then pull the front set
of sts thru them. 3 sts left.  Bind off these 3 sts and sew the side of the
wing up to the color change, using the yarn tail.    Remove the hem and
weights.  Using the MC tail, continue sewing the sleeve shut.  Turn the
wing inside out.

Now you have live sts left on WY.  Rehang* the doubled sts onto 12 needles
and remove the WY.  Pull the front sts thru the back sts as before.  Use
the tail to sew the live sts onto the side of the sweater, securing them as
you go.  I took them off onto a dp needle to hold them as I worked.  Then I
picked a row of sts and grafted them in, sorta a combination of grafting
and duplicate st while the sweater was on the goose. 
You will have to face the 2 wings in opposite directions as you rehang at
*, so that the top of the sleeves look the same.  A line of purl bumps will
show on one side where the front sts were pulled thru the back ones.  You
want that to be the back side of the wing when you sew it on the sweater.

Doggone, looks like it took more to tell you how to do the wing than the
whole sweater!

Ann in Tenn

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Last modified on : 1st September 1998.