Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 17:26:31 +1000 From: Val Paino (firstname.lastname@example.org) Subject: [BOND] MK Abbreviations For a while now, I've been collecting a list of abbreviations as they apply to machine knitters, as seen in books, patterns, etc. I thought it might be of use to some here, and that you may have additions for me. While they are not Bond-specific, there are Bond terms here and they will also help in converting MK patterns to the Bond. Regards, Val ******************************************************** NB These abbreviations may be found in upper or lower case. A,B,C and D (usually) contrast colours 1/3,2/3}= denotes tensions represented by dots between whole numbers .1,.2 } on stitch/tension dial alt = alternate(ly) altog = altogether ANR = all needle rib (DR,ENR,FNR,K/K) beg = beginning BB = back bed BO = bind off (cast off) BOLT = bind off (latch tool) CAL = carriage at left carr = carriage (cam box) (lock - Passap) CAR = carriage at right CB = cam box (generic term for carriage/lock) CC = clearing cams (generic term for part/slip/empty buttons) CC = contrast colour ch = chain ch.co = chain cast-on (latch-tool/crochet cast-on) cm = centimetre(s) CO = cast on COBH = cast on by hand col = colour COL = carriage on left con = contrast COR = carriage on right cont = continu(e)(ing) CR = carriage release CY = contrast yarn DB = double bed dc = double crochet dec = decreas(e)(ing) DK = double knitting DR = double rib (ANR,ENR,FNR,K/K) ENR = every needle rib (ANR,DR,FNR,K/K) EON = every other needle EOR = every other row ev = every FB = front bed Ff(FF) = fully fashioned FI = Fair Isle fig = figure FL = fine lace (on Brother machines) FNR = full needle rib (ANR,DR,ENR,K/K) foll = following ft = foot (feet) g = grams (grammes) GC = garter carriage GS = garter stitch HK = hand knitting HP = holding position I = working position (needles) (Passap) IC = intarsia carriage in = inch(es) inc = increas(e)(ing) ISM = Incredible Sweater Machine (Bond) K = knit KCI } = dial positions on Brother machines KCII } K/K = knit/knit (ANR,DR,ENR,FNR) kg = kilogram(s) (kilogrammes) L = lace L = left lb = pound(s) (weight) LC = lace carriage LH = left hand LHS = left hand side LOL = lock on left (Passap) LOR = lock on right (Passap) M/c = machine MB = main bed MC = main carriage MC = main colour MC = multi-colour (on Brother machines) mm = millimetre(s) MT = main tension MT-1 = main tension minus one, one whole number less than main tension used in knitting the garment MT+1 = main tension plus one, one whole number more than main tension used in knitting the garment MY = main yarn N(s) = needle(s) Nd(s) = needle(s) Ndl(s) = needle(s) NB = note bien (take note) No = number NRB = needle return buttons NSB = needle selection buttons NWP = non working position 0 = central position on needle bed O = neutral position (needles) (Passap) O/0 = no stitches or rows worked opp = opposite oz = ounce(s) P = purl PAT = pusher aligning tool (Passap) patt = pattern PB = push-button PC = punch card R = right RB = ribber bed RC = return cams (generic term for holding position levers) RC = row counter rem = remaining rep = repeat RH = right hand RHS = right hand side RP - rest position (Passap) RT = rib tension SB = single bed SC = single crochet SD = selector dial (Passap) SRE = silk ribbon embroidery SS = stitch size S/S = stocking stitch (stockinette stitch) st(s) = stitch(es) StS = stitch size std = standard strd = strand st.st. = stocking stitch (stockinette stitch) SY = scrap yarn T = tension TC = transfer carriage TD = tension dial tog = together trans = transfer UWP = upper working position WK = waste knit (K a few rows and release from machine, using WY) WOCO = wind-on cast on (e-wrap) WP = working position WY = waste yarn yd = yard(s) x = times  = figures in brackets refer to larger sizes () = at end of sentence denote total no. of sts., rows or ns. WEIGHT CONVERSION TABLE *********************** Ounces to grams, calculated to the nearest whole gram 1 oz = 28.35 grams oz gms 1 .. 28 2 .. 57 3 .. 85 4 .. 113 5 .. 142 6 .. 170 7 .. 198 8 .. 227 9 .. 255 10 .. 283 11 .. 312 12 .. 340 13 .. 369 14 .. 397 15 .. 425 16 .. 454 Sydney Australia email@example.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 23:06:48 -0700 From: firstname.lastname@example.org Subject: [BOND] Simple Thought I have been doing the following for years for both hand and machine knitting, when I am doing a garment, irregardless of the amount of colours, the type of wool/yarn etc. I tape a small one inch sample of all the yarns used to the pattern page, just in case I want to use that same colours again and can't remember them. I also tape or actually I staple the band from one of the balls of yarn and put the tension on the back as well as the colour numbers, not the dye lots as these would change over the years. I also use a receipe card box, small one, for recording the tensions and patterns that I enjoy knitting the most, it makes an easy reference when doing keyplate sweaters that I hope the tension matches. Also remember there is a great difference between whites, lights and dark colours in tension swatches due to dyeing and over-dyeing. Friends in knitting, Linda email@example.com Linda Boudreau ------------------------------ Date: 30 Aug 1997 15:24:09 EST From: "Karen E. Bourne" (KBOURN@CO.FAIRFAX.VA.US) Here are 2 URL's that have chest size charts for babies and children. National Bureau of Standards Body Measurements Tables (includes all kinds of measurements, not just chest size)http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Valley/6057/nbsmeasure.html
Yarn Forward - CHILDREN'S SIZES (just chest and finished sizes)http://www.yarnfwd.com/childsiz.html
Hope this helps! Karen ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Aug 1997 17:20:28 -0500 From: "Jimmy Simmons" (firstname.lastname@example.org) Subject: Re: [BOND] baby, toddler sizes Here are the standard chest sizes: (Size Baby) Baby = 19" (Size 1-2) 1-2 Yr = 20-1/2" (Size 3-4) 3-4 Yr = 22" (Size 5) 5-6 Yr = 23-1/2" (Size 6-7) 6-7 Yr = 25-1/2" (Size 8) 9-10 Yr= 27" (Size 9-10) 11-12 Yr= 28-1/2" (Size 11-12) 13-14 Yr= 31" - -------------------------------------- WOMAN: Size 12 = 32" Size 14 = 34" Size 16 = 36" Size 18 = 38" - --------------------------------------- MAN Size 34 = 34" Size 36 = 36" Size 38 = 38" Size 40 = 40" Size 42 = 42" Size 44 + 44" etc. - ---------------------------------------- Taking the measurement: Bust or chest: Measure at the fullest part of the bust or chest, putting the tape evenly and *lightly* around. Note: if you take measurements, don't use the actual measurements for the size of the garment. It will be too tight. An allowance must be figured in. For Women and men add about 3" to the actual bust/chest measurement. For a child add about 4". I haven't had too much experience pattern drafting for a baby. I would add about the same amount as for a woman or man (about 3") I hope this helps. One of these days (when I get a round tuit) I'll make a chart of all the major measurements for sizes. (arm-length, waist, neck opening, etc.) Jim --- Jimmy L. Simmons email@example.com://www2.datasync.com/orion
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 07:36:49 -0400 From: firstname.lastname@example.org (McGeveran Nancy) Subject: [BOND] Graph Paper There's a wonderful little shareware windows program that lets you make graph paper in any size you like (say 4spaces horizontally and 5 spaces vertically per inch--one I just used). You just enter your guage per inch, press print, and voila! It can be downloaded fromhttp://knitting.miningco.com/mlibrary.htm
Nancy McGeveran New York ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 09:15:35 -0800 From: Linda Boudreau (email@example.com) Subject: [BOND] Organization + Inovationative Techniques Toilet tissue tubes - don't throw away, use these over the ball winder, by making a small slit in the top of it, insert the yarn put it on the winder and wind as usual. The store upright so that you can see what colours you have left over. Also great for having a centre feed ball for knitting with. Shoe boxes etc - don't throw away, place yarn on its side with the centre pull facing out towards the side. Using a paper punch or hole maker, make a hole in approximately 4 evenly spaced places across the box. Do not make a slit above the hole as the yarn will get caught every time. Put the yarn in the box, insert the ends, through the hole, put the cover on, and you have hassel free intarsia or fairisle knitting. If you also put a panel in the top, and cover it with clear wrap you can see when you are getting close to the end. Clothes pins - I use these for hanging onto the ends of the balls when I am knitting, it always tells me that the end is near. Do not place it right on the end but rather up about a foot and you will be able to catch it in time. Plastic or clay flower pots - Use these for placing the yarns under and feed the colours through the hole in the bottom. Insert yarn through the hole, place the flower pot upside down and knit away, no more rolling yarn, no more tanlged mess. Cuphooks:- Use these on the back of the machine where the yarn feeds from a basket on the floot, pass the yarn through the cup hook, and it passes through without going back and forth over the bed every time as we do not have yarn masts on the ISM> Cuphook plus 6 inch ruler. = To avoid the yarns from getting caught in the row counter screw a cup book through the spot on the ruler where your carriage height is above the counter by at least an inch. Glue on screw this in place at the back of the table. Now put the cup hook below this for an even feed to the top and voila' no more tangled row counters and yarn. Basket on wheels - after the infants abandon the three tiered tray in the nursery, or go to a discount store and purchase one, what I do is copy the pattern by copier , wind off all of my yarn, and place each in a section of the three tier basket depending on how and when I want them finished. I do the same for quilting and sewing. Gift bags - pretty as they are they are wonderful to put behind the table on the floor to hold the yarns, they are also great for putting a whole project in that you want to do some hand ribbing on ( banish the thought), but some of us are diehards, put in the appropriate needles, set them beside the door, or better yet, if not in a hurry for same place in the verhicle, next time you are waiting it will amaze you how much you can accomplish when you wait for someone who is shopping. Coloured nail polish - No I have not lost it, this is an age old trick, when you are working a pattern and want to know exactly which needles to use every time and they are not going to move, put a dot of nailpolish on the bar in front or you can use a dot from the stationery store. You will never select the wrong needles again. After you are done a q-tip and polish remover moves it out of the way. Bulletn Boards - Put the patterns of the projects that you plan to do along with a sample of the yarn on the board, everytime you feel you just cannot knit another row look at the board, and be inspired with what is coming next. It also serves as a great palce to put a note of inspiration. Scrapbooks:- I cut the picutres out of sweaters that really interest me, for colour for designs etc., don't forget oriental rug and needlepoints, they have already taken the guess work out of colour combinations and today even the most inexpensive yarn comes in the dull as well as the bright colours. I never used white in a fairisle design, rather use off white, as it makes it stick out like a dot on paper, it is the only colour imaginable that can look straight at you. I learned this from my readings of Kaffee Fassett. When a garment is finished I put about 4 inche pieces of the yarn that I used and tape them to the pattern sheet, then I staple this tape in place and put it in a safe spot so if I ever go to reproduce, I am sure with the yarn lable, and swatch along with the yarn it can be done. Why I now love to do tension swatches - Pick up a set of the clear sheets that you can insert a tension swatch into. As you try a new technique and are inspired by it, pin it in place in the sheet, along with the directions on how you accomplished this. When you have found a better technique remove it from the binder and put it in a basket that you are now saving for a crazy quilt. All you have to do is using a yarn that is either complimentary or selected single crochet around each of these or whip stitch them together on a flat bed sheet. I do not use bedsheets for quilting but use them when I am doing victorian crazy quilt art as they last much longer, and one does not have to qult through them, the design is all on the top, and they are secured by the embroidery stitches. Anove all, relax and enjoy yourself. Remember, to stop and take a break when it seems impossible to go any further, read a good book, go for a walk, and then come back and it will look all new again. Bonding Buddy, Linda B. " I cried because I had no shoes - until I met a man who had no feet." " Live life one day at a time but make it a masterpiece." firstname.lastname@example.org (Linda )http://www.geocities.com/Paris/9197/sheep.htm
------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 21:45:39 EST From: Sade92 (Sade92@aol.com) Subject: Re: [BOND] Re: grams & oz Conversions Ounces = Grams x 0.035 Grams = Ounces x 28.57 Inches = Centimeters x 0.3937 Yards = Meters x 0.9144 Centimeters = Inches x 2.54 Meters = Yards x 1.0936 Weights 3/4 oz. = 21.5 grams 1 oz. = 28.5 grams 1 1/2 oz. = 43 grams 1 3/4 oz. = 50 grams 2 oz. = 57 grams 3 1/2 oz. = 100 grams Hope this helps! Laura in Ohio
------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 Sep 1998 12:19:43 -0500 From: Carl Andrew Hellner Subject: Re: [BOND] Yellow card > I am a new user and cannot find my "yellow card" can someone please tell me > what the measurements are so I can make one?? The yellow card measures 2 3/8" x 7 3/4" (55mm x 197mm). The green card measures 2 5/8" x 7 3/4" (65mm x 197mm). Carl email@example.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 13:05:59 -0700 From: Jill Delgado Subject: [BOND] Sweater ease I was just rereading Lynda's letter about her success at the fair,where she was wondering about amount to allow for ease, and remembered I had a book with ease formulas. Thought that, at last, I could share something that everyone might use. Finished Bust/chest measurments Body hugging.. subtract 5-10% from actual measurment Close fitting ..... plus 0-5% Normal fitting.....plus 7-10% Loose fitting ......plus 12-15% Oversized .........plus 16-20% Hope this helps... Jillie ----------------------------- Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 13:41:41 EST From: Smithercol@aol.com Subject: Re: [BOND] Dye question I once heard Sandra Betzina say on Sew Perfect (HGTV) that if you added a cup of salt and a cup of vinegar into the wash water, your fabric would no longer bleed. I have tried it and it worked for me. Smithercol@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 08:37:05 -0600 From: "Holly Jones" Subject: Re: [BOND] Dye question- hints I know from experience (and my Chemistry teaching parents) that you can set the dye of a garment or yarn by washing it in salt water or vinegar . Salt method Just add a health amount of table salt to the WARM wash water - so the salt will be disolved when you add the item. You can taste the water ( before you add the soap! :) and it should be like sea water. ( This is how the Panama native indains set the bright colors in their multi color Molas- just wash them in the ocean ) You really can not use too much salt. Then add the garment, soap and wash as usual. Vinegar Method Substitute vinegar for salt at least 2 cups per wash load . Any vinegar will do -- the cheaper the better. Combined method For added insurance I add 1 cup or so of vinegar to the FINAL rinse water of the salt water method . I place the vinegar in the fabric softener dispenser. The acid of the vinegar will neutralize and lock in the dye color and make certain that the salt and soap are out . Any vinegar will do -- the cheaper the better. I buy the gallon size at Sam's Club. In Fact I use Vinegar in the rinse the first time I wash any colorful clothes and in the rinse water of all my washable silks. Vinegar makes the color "last" longer and the silks come out with a nicer feel and less wrinkles. Works as a fabric softener but MUCH cheaper and no dye or perfumes to bug my nose and skin . Try it .. Good luck Holly Jones in Carrollton Texas on North edge of Dallas, Texas firstname.lastname@example.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 08:30:17 -0600 From: email@example.com (Shannon R.) Subject: [BOND] Using the Latch Tool I have seen several references about users having difficulty with the latch tool and working up the rib. After struggling myself for quite a while I knew there had to be a "trick" to this and watched the video again. There are two important factors ... keep tension below the area you are latching up -- I either put a thumb underneath or even use the two-prong tool about 1" down to really get a good hold. Second ... hold the latch tool horizontally and move smoothly back and forth. The rhythm of the stitch going over the latch will automatically open it and it will be ready to catch the next ladder. I caught myself holding the tool at a diagonal thus catching and splitting the next stitch almost every time. I hope this helps you because it made a world of difference in my latching speed. Oh, yes, one more thing ... when my tools were new the latch didn't open and close easy -- come to find out there was a small piece of plastic wedged in behind the latch from when they assembled the tool. Shannon aka Quilty Otis KS firstname.lastname@example.org Taking time to stitch isn't a luxury --- it's a necessity! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 13:12:40 -0500 From: "Lea-Ann@knittingtoday.com" Subject: [BOND] Using the Latch Tool Hi everyone: Another tip is to hold the latch tool in between the thumb and the last three fingers of your hand and use your index finger to hold the latch open when you have a stitch behind the latch. Lea-Ann Lea-Ann@knittingtoday.com http://knittingtoday.com Bond Knitters' Club Online! -- http://www.userhome.com/knittingtoday ------------------------------ Japanese mid-gauge and Bond machine comparison (according to Bond) Metric hand knitting | US hand knitting | | Bond 8mm original (no dot) | | | Bond 8mm dot | | | | Brother 8mm | | | | | Bond Elite 7mm | | | | | | Singer/Studio 6.5mm | | | | | | | 2.25 1* 1 1 1.5 2.50 2.75 2* 2 2 2.5 3.00 3.25 3 3.5 3 3.5 3.5 4 1 4.5 4 5 3.75 5 1 6 5 6 4.0 6 7.5 6 7.5 4.25 2 4.5 7 2 8.5 7 9 4.75 5.0 8 10 8 10+ 5.25 3 3 5.5 9 5.75 4 4 6.0 10 * note that the metric equivalent of US size 1 needles is variously given as 2.25 or 2.5 and US size 2 is given as either 2.75 or 3. Sources - ------- A table from a 1989 Bond Keyplate News provided by Donna Crolley. Various sources for the metric equivalents to US sizes including Lois Baker's hand knitting needle size chart http://www.benefitslink.com/knit/knitlink/needles.shtml --------------------------- Keyplate Yarn Type Handknit Needle Size Gauge 1 Baby/Light Sport 6 22-26 sts/4in 2 DK/Sport/Light Worsted 6-7 18-21sts/4in 3 4-ply Worsted 8-9 16-18 sts/4in 4 Chunky/Mohair 9-10 14-15 sts/4in ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 01:09:42 -0800 From: "Lila M. Jones" Subject: [BOND] Yardage requirements. Betty, do you have "Creative?" I got mine from Lea-Ann. The patterns are dated, but the info is wonderful. About estimating yardage requirements: "General rule of thumb for a plain, long-sleeved ladies sweater is: size 12 pullover will require approx. 1000 yards of bulky weight, 1200 yards of worsted weight, and 1400 yards of sport weight. Add or subtract 10% for each size larger or smaller. If you add pattern stitches such as tuck or cable, your will use more yarn. Lace patterns require slightly less." "If you do not have any given yardage for the yarn, try this method used by spinners and weavers. Wrap your yarn around a ruler. Wrap the yarn smoothly so that the strands lie side by side, but do not pull the yarn tightly. Now count the number of wraps per inch. A worsted weight will measure 12 wraps per inch, and sport weight will measure 14 wraps per inch. As in measuring your gauge, it is best to wrap two to three inches, count the wraps overall, then divide by the number of inches." "This correlates to the number of yards required for an average sweater. One wrap per inch for each 100 yards required for the sweater. A worsted weight will measure 12 wraps per inch and will require approximately 1200 yard for the average adult sweater." This was quoted from an article in "Creative" page 12. I hope this helps. Lila ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 18:41:16 From: Susannah Kelsey Subject: Re: [BOND] Yarn thickness >I have a question about yarn. >I don't know about Britain, but in America there are basically 3 types >of yarn. Baby weight or "fingering" I think it's called, sport yarn and >worsted weight. >Am I correct in assuming that: >baby yarn is 2 ply (very thin) >sport weight is 3 ply (medium) >worsted weight is 4 ply (medium to heavy) Instead of the "ply" system that can be very confusing when going back and forth between American and British terminology, I categorize yarns by the number of stitches per inch instead. For example, we think of 4-ply as worsted weight, but British knitters use 4-ply to indicate fingering weight. Baby weight or fingering yarns knit at about 7stitches per inch Sport is 6 sts per inch DK or double knitting is 5.5 sts per inch Worsted is 5 sts per inch Heavy worsted or Aran is 4.5 to 4 sts per inch Bulky or chunky is 3.5 to 3 sts per inch
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