 Back
to the Bond List Hints and Tips Page |
 |
 Please e-mail any comments to me at steph@stephthornton.co.uk |
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 17:26:31 +1000
From: Val Paino (val@cia.com.au)
Subject: [BOND] MK Abbreviations
For a while now, I've been collecting a list of abbreviations as they
apply to machine knitters, as seen in books, patterns, etc. I thought
it might be of use to some here, and that you may have additions for me.
While they are not Bond-specific, there are Bond terms here and they
will also help in converting MK patterns to the Bond.
Regards, Val
********************************************************
NB These abbreviations may be found in upper or lower case.
A,B,C and D (usually) contrast colours
1/3,2/3}= denotes tensions represented by dots between whole numbers
.1,.2 } on stitch/tension dial
alt = alternate(ly)
altog = altogether
ANR = all needle rib (DR,ENR,FNR,K/K)
beg = beginning
BB = back bed
BO = bind off (cast off)
BOLT = bind off (latch tool)
CAL = carriage at left
carr = carriage (cam box) (lock - Passap)
CAR = carriage at right
CB = cam box (generic term for carriage/lock)
CC = clearing cams (generic term for part/slip/empty buttons)
CC = contrast colour
ch = chain
ch.co = chain cast-on (latch-tool/crochet cast-on)
cm = centimetre(s)
CO = cast on
COBH = cast on by hand
col = colour
COL = carriage on left
con = contrast
COR = carriage on right
cont = continu(e)(ing)
CR = carriage release
CY = contrast yarn
DB = double bed
dc = double crochet
dec = decreas(e)(ing)
DK = double knitting
DR = double rib (ANR,ENR,FNR,K/K)
ENR = every needle rib (ANR,DR,FNR,K/K)
EON = every other needle
EOR = every other row
ev = every
FB = front bed
Ff(FF) = fully fashioned
FI = Fair Isle
fig = figure
FL = fine lace (on Brother machines)
FNR = full needle rib (ANR,DR,ENR,K/K)
foll = following
ft = foot (feet)
g = grams (grammes)
GC = garter carriage
GS = garter stitch
HK = hand knitting
HP = holding position
I = working position (needles) (Passap)
IC = intarsia carriage
in = inch(es)
inc = increas(e)(ing)
ISM = Incredible Sweater Machine (Bond)
K = knit
KCI } = dial positions on Brother machines
KCII }
K/K = knit/knit (ANR,DR,ENR,FNR)
kg = kilogram(s) (kilogrammes)
L = lace
L = left
lb = pound(s) (weight)
LC = lace carriage
LH = left hand
LHS = left hand side
LOL = lock on left (Passap)
LOR = lock on right (Passap)
M/c = machine
MB = main bed
MC = main carriage
MC = main colour
MC = multi-colour (on Brother machines)
mm = millimetre(s)
MT = main tension
MT-1 = main tension minus one, one whole number less than main tension
used in knitting the garment
MT+1 = main tension plus one, one whole number more than main tension
used in knitting the garment
MY = main yarn
N(s) = needle(s)
Nd(s) = needle(s)
Ndl(s) = needle(s)
NB = note bien (take note)
No = number
NRB = needle return buttons
NSB = needle selection buttons
NWP = non working position
0 = central position on needle bed
O = neutral position (needles) (Passap)
O/0 = no stitches or rows worked
opp = opposite
oz = ounce(s)
P = purl
PAT = pusher aligning tool (Passap)
patt = pattern
PB = push-button
PC = punch card
R = right
RB = ribber bed
RC = return cams (generic term for holding position levers)
RC = row counter
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
RH = right hand
RHS = right hand side
RP - rest position (Passap)
RT = rib tension
SB = single bed
SC = single crochet
SD = selector dial (Passap)
SRE = silk ribbon embroidery
SS = stitch size
S/S = stocking stitch (stockinette stitch)
st(s) = stitch(es)
StS = stitch size
std = standard
strd = strand
st.st. = stocking stitch (stockinette stitch)
SY = scrap yarn
T = tension
TC = transfer carriage
TD = tension dial
tog = together
trans = transfer
UWP = upper working position
WK = waste knit (K a few rows and release from machine, using WY)
WOCO = wind-on cast on (e-wrap)
WP = working position
WY = waste yarn
yd = yard(s)
x = times
[] = figures in brackets refer to larger sizes
() = at end of sentence denote total no. of sts., rows or ns.
WEIGHT CONVERSION TABLE
***********************
Ounces to grams, calculated to the nearest whole gram
1 oz = 28.35 grams
oz gms
1 .. 28
2 .. 57
3 .. 85
4 .. 113
5 .. 142
6 .. 170
7 .. 198
8 .. 227
9 .. 255
10 .. 283
11 .. 312
12 .. 340
13 .. 369
14 .. 397
15 .. 425
16 .. 454
Sydney Australia
val@cia.com.au
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 23:06:48 -0700
From: patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca
Subject: [BOND] Simple Thought
I have been doing the following for years for both hand and machine
knitting, when I am doing a garment, irregardless of the amount of colours,
the type of wool/yarn etc. I tape a small one inch sample of all the yarns
used to the pattern page, just in case I want to use that same colours again
and can't remember them. I also tape or actually I staple the band from one
of the balls of yarn and put the tension on the back as well as the colour
numbers, not the dye lots as these would change over the years.
I also use a receipe card box, small one, for recording the tensions
and patterns that I enjoy knitting the most, it makes an easy reference when
doing keyplate sweaters that I hope the tension matches. Also remember
there is a great difference between whites, lights and dark colours in
tension swatches due to dyeing and over-dyeing.
Friends in knitting,
Linda
patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca
Linda Boudreau
------------------------------
Date: 30 Aug 1997 15:24:09 EST
From: "Karen E. Bourne" (KBOURN@CO.FAIRFAX.VA.US)
Here are 2 URL's that have chest size charts for babies and children.
National Bureau of Standards Body Measurements Tables
(includes all kinds of measurements, not just chest size)
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Valley/6057/nbsmeasure.html
Yarn Forward - CHILDREN'S SIZES (just chest and finished sizes)http://www.yarnfwd.com/childsiz.html
Hope this helps! Karen ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Aug 1997 17:20:28 -0500 From: "Jimmy Simmons" (orion@mail.datasync.com) Subject: Re: [BOND] baby, toddler sizes Here are the standard chest sizes: (Size Baby) Baby = 19" (Size 1-2) 1-2 Yr = 20-1/2" (Size 3-4) 3-4 Yr = 22" (Size 5) 5-6 Yr = 23-1/2" (Size 6-7) 6-7 Yr = 25-1/2" (Size 8) 9-10 Yr= 27" (Size 9-10) 11-12 Yr= 28-1/2" (Size 11-12) 13-14 Yr= 31" - -------------------------------------- WOMAN: Size 12 = 32" Size 14 = 34" Size 16 = 36" Size 18 = 38" - --------------------------------------- MAN Size 34 = 34" Size 36 = 36" Size 38 = 38" Size 40 = 40" Size 42 = 42" Size 44 + 44" etc. - ---------------------------------------- Taking the measurement: Bust or chest: Measure at the fullest part of the bust or chest, putting the tape evenly and *lightly* around. Note: if you take measurements, don't use the actual measurements for the size of the garment. It will be too tight. An allowance must be figured in. For Women and men add about 3" to the actual bust/chest measurement. For a child add about 4". I haven't had too much experience pattern drafting for a baby. I would add about the same amount as for a woman or man (about 3") I hope this helps. One of these days (when I get a round tuit) I'll make a chart of all the major measurements for sizes. (arm-length, waist, neck opening, etc.) Jim --- Jimmy L. Simmons orion@datasync.comhttp://www2.datasync.com/orion
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 07:36:49 -0400 From: mcgevern@stjohns.edu (McGeveran Nancy) Subject: [BOND] Graph Paper There's a wonderful little shareware windows program that lets you make graph paper in any size you like (say 4spaces horizontally and 5 spaces vertically per inch--one I just used). You just enter your guage per inch, press print, and voila! It can be downloaded fromhttp://knitting.miningco.com/mlibrary.htm
Nancy McGeveran New York ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 09:15:35 -0800 From: Linda Boudreau (patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca) Subject: [BOND] Organization + Inovationative Techniques Toilet tissue tubes - don't throw away, use these over the ball winder, by making a small slit in the top of it, insert the yarn put it on the winder and wind as usual. The store upright so that you can see what colours you have left over. Also great for having a centre feed ball for knitting with. Shoe boxes etc - don't throw away, place yarn on its side with the centre pull facing out towards the side. Using a paper punch or hole maker, make a hole in approximately 4 evenly spaced places across the box. Do not make a slit above the hole as the yarn will get caught every time. Put the yarn in the box, insert the ends, through the hole, put the cover on, and you have hassel free intarsia or fairisle knitting. If you also put a panel in the top, and cover it with clear wrap you can see when you are getting close to the end. Clothes pins - I use these for hanging onto the ends of the balls when I am knitting, it always tells me that the end is near. Do not place it right on the end but rather up about a foot and you will be able to catch it in time. Plastic or clay flower pots - Use these for placing the yarns under and feed the colours through the hole in the bottom. Insert yarn through the hole, place the flower pot upside down and knit away, no more rolling yarn, no more tanlged mess. Cuphooks:- Use these on the back of the machine where the yarn feeds from a basket on the floot, pass the yarn through the cup hook, and it passes through without going back and forth over the bed every time as we do not have yarn masts on the ISM> Cuphook plus 6 inch ruler. = To avoid the yarns from getting caught in the row counter screw a cup book through the spot on the ruler where your carriage height is above the counter by at least an inch. Glue on screw this in place at the back of the table. Now put the cup hook below this for an even feed to the top and voila' no more tangled row counters and yarn. Basket on wheels - after the infants abandon the three tiered tray in the nursery, or go to a discount store and purchase one, what I do is copy the pattern by copier , wind off all of my yarn, and place each in a section of the three tier basket depending on how and when I want them finished. I do the same for quilting and sewing. Gift bags - pretty as they are they are wonderful to put behind the table on the floor to hold the yarns, they are also great for putting a whole project in that you want to do some hand ribbing on ( banish the thought), but some of us are diehards, put in the appropriate needles, set them beside the door, or better yet, if not in a hurry for same place in the verhicle, next time you are waiting it will amaze you how much you can accomplish when you wait for someone who is shopping. Coloured nail polish - No I have not lost it, this is an age old trick, when you are working a pattern and want to know exactly which needles to use every time and they are not going to move, put a dot of nailpolish on the bar in front or you can use a dot from the stationery store. You will never select the wrong needles again. After you are done a q-tip and polish remover moves it out of the way. Bulletn Boards - Put the patterns of the projects that you plan to do along with a sample of the yarn on the board, everytime you feel you just cannot knit another row look at the board, and be inspired with what is coming next. It also serves as a great palce to put a note of inspiration. Scrapbooks:- I cut the picutres out of sweaters that really interest me, for colour for designs etc., don't forget oriental rug and needlepoints, they have already taken the guess work out of colour combinations and today even the most inexpensive yarn comes in the dull as well as the bright colours. I never used white in a fairisle design, rather use off white, as it makes it stick out like a dot on paper, it is the only colour imaginable that can look straight at you. I learned this from my readings of Kaffee Fassett. When a garment is finished I put about 4 inche pieces of the yarn that I used and tape them to the pattern sheet, then I staple this tape in place and put it in a safe spot so if I ever go to reproduce, I am sure with the yarn lable, and swatch along with the yarn it can be done. Why I now love to do tension swatches - Pick up a set of the clear sheets that you can insert a tension swatch into. As you try a new technique and are inspired by it, pin it in place in the sheet, along with the directions on how you accomplished this. When you have found a better technique remove it from the binder and put it in a basket that you are now saving for a crazy quilt. All you have to do is using a yarn that is either complimentary or selected single crochet around each of these or whip stitch them together on a flat bed sheet. I do not use bedsheets for quilting but use them when I am doing victorian crazy quilt art as they last much longer, and one does not have to qult through them, the design is all on the top, and they are secured by the embroidery stitches. Anove all, relax and enjoy yourself. Remember, to stop and take a break when it seems impossible to go any further, read a good book, go for a walk, and then come back and it will look all new again. Bonding Buddy, Linda B. " I cried because I had no shoes - until I met a man who had no feet." " Live life one day at a time but make it a masterpiece." patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca (Linda )http://www.geocities.com/Paris/9197/sheep.htm