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From: Psewknit@aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 08:36:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [BOND] tuck and slip stitch..??
Tuck stitch collects the unknit stitches on the needle and holds them until
they are knit off in a later row. The number of stitches that can be held on
the needles depends upon the yarn size, amount of weight on the fabric, and
your machine. The result is a denser, heavily textured fabric. By changing
colors every 2 rows or so, you can get some beautiful effects. You cannot
tuck (hold) on two needles next to each other.
Slip stitch leaves a strand of yarn below the needle on the purl face of the
fabric. ..............Help me out here, Bonders, can you do this on a Bond,
or must you drop the strand from a held stitch?............(You can have the
slipped strand show on the knit face instead by lifting the stitch off the
needle with a transfer tool, pulling the stitch under the strand, and
re-hanging the stitch on the needle.) You can get some great textures this
way using only one color. Unlike tuck (hold), you can slip on two or more
adjacent needles and can use this technique for fair isle colorwork, limited
only by the size of the resulting loose strand of yarn (also called a
"float"). Of course, to make things confusing....these loose floats can then
be picked up and re-hung on later rows to resemble the tuck stitch above!
The book Hand Manipulated Stitches for Machine Knitters by Susan Guagliamo
(no affiliation,,,just learned A LOT from this book!) shows lots of ways to
use tuck for texture and gives a good explanation of how stitches are formed
by knitting machines. Hope this helps!
Peggy
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 01:23:49 -0500
From: Heidi Stepp (rhstepp@snowhill.com)
Subject: [BOND] Slip-stitch?
A slip stitch is when a stitch is not knitted but the strand of yarn is
left in front of the unworked stitch instead. You can not automatically do
this on the Bond with the regular keyplate because if you put certain
needles in holding position, the strand of yarn will be deposited on top of
those needles which is called a tuck stitch and this strand is eventually
knitted back into the stitch. But you could of course lift up that strand
and place it under the needle, then it would be a slip stitch.
I heard that Lea-Ann has an article about slip-stitch knitting in the next
MKS magazine? I was experimenting tonight and found out that you can
also do slip-stitch on the Bond by using the intarsia keyplate without the
yarn guide in place, she may have a different (and probably much better
method).
Let's say you want to slip one stitch and knit five, repeated across the
row. Leave the needles that you want to slip in working position and bring
all other needles to forward working position with the latches open. Lay
the yarn in all the needles and knit across with the intarsia keyplate
minus the yarn guide. On the next row, leave the needles next to the ones
that were slipped in working position and bring out the rest of them to
forward working position. Lay yarn in needles and knit across. If you
repeat this for several rows you will see ridges of floats forming that are
in a diagonal direction.
You can make all sorts of patterns by arranging the needles that slip in
different places on the bed. A checkerboard pattern could be made by
leaving one stitch in working position (to be slipped), bringing the next
three to forward working position, repeat across. Do this for four rows,
then bring the needle that was previously slipped forward along with its
neighbor on each side to forward working position (and leave the other
ones in working position. It would look like this:
xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx
xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx
xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx
xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx
x-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-x
x-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-x
x-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx-x
x=needles brought to forward working position
- -=needles left in working position
Has anyone else tried this method and is there another method that is
easier for slip-stitching?? Just curious....
Heidi in Alabama
rhstepp@snowhill.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 1997 08:18:08 -0500
From: "Lea-Ann McGregor" (Lea-Ann@knittingtoday.com)
Subject: [BOND] seed stitch and increasing tip
Hi all: While knitting the sample sweater from B.C. 21 out of Des
Montes cotton, had a couple of tips to share . . . . .
knit cotton yarn slower than normal as it doesn't have the elasticity
to stretch over the needles. I go so slow I can feel the stitch slip
down over the closed needle one by one.
while doing a seed stitch conversion, I found that I needed to hang
onto the edge of the knitting closest to whichever side I was
working in order to keep the work pulled down and out to easily
make the conversions. I like to work with my left hand in the back
of the knitting and right hand in the front, and since I don't have
three hands to hold the knitting out . . . . grabbed one of the big
claw weights. That had enough weight to hold the knitting down and
let my hands do the work . . . . really speeded up the conversion
process. Also, if you have a higher table to do this at, it'll save
on neck and back strain. I found that with my ribbings also. I did
those on a higher table and it went much quicker and saved on pain.
Second hint, the sleeve is a set in style. While doing the increases
for the sleeve, I used the 2-prong transfer tool, moved two stitches
out, picked up the bump of the 3rd stitch and placed it on the empty
needle, hooked on a claw weight, and slowly knitted. That moves my
increase in from the edge and when I seam it up, it'll be easy to
find the stitches.
Just wanted to share . . . . I got up early to knit this morning.
One more sleeve to go and then put it all together! Onward to the
next project. . . . only 6 days to go until the TKGA convention!
TTYL. Lea-Ann
Lea-Ann McGregor
Knitting Today
6601 Pine Meadows Lane
Fort Wayne, IN 46835
219-486-5248/800-426-5098 (orders)
http://www.knittingtoday.com
------------------------------
From: Linda Boudreau (patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca)
When doing a crochet cast on. Loop and tie the first needle on the left
hand side, hold the yarn above the needles with the latch tool below and
push the latch tool up, draw the yarn through, you have just formed a stitch
over the needle, do this loosely, move over to the next needle, under with
latch hook catch the yarn and pull through, etc.
Seed stitcher:-
Great little tool:_
This is double ended to save time and incorporate the use of two
stitches at the same time:
1- insert tool into loop and under first ladder.
2- push tool all the way to the back and catch the same ladder in the latch
that you are holding in your hand.
3-you have now formed a stitch.
4- push tool back through stitch towards you but under the next ladder.
5- catch this stitch and pull towards you, you now have the full stitcher
back in your hand again, and just inished another stitch.
6 - what you have just done is purled one and knit one
You can keep repeating this all the way up or as often in the
pattern as required. Great for moss stitch etc. Once you get the hang of
it, it is quite easy to use.
Just Linda!
patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca (Linda )
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/9197/sheep.htm
http://www.keyway.net/crafts/lbpats.htm
------------------------------
From: Linda Boudreau (patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca)
Subject: Shaker Lace Square
All squares and techniques will use Keyplate # 3 and worsted weight
yarn:-
The tension will vary according to the yarns that you use so, adjust
accordingly.:-
Technique:- Shaker Lace - Ladder down and with latch tool in front instead
of in back ladder up every 2nd ladder all the way across.
Leave at least 3 - 4 stitches knitting even on the edge.
Cast on 40 stitches.
Knit 4 rows
Knit 40 more rows.
Convert to shaker lace stitch.
Knit 4 rows,
Cast off.
Just Linda!
patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca (Linda )
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/9197/sheep.htm
http://www.keyway.net/crafts/lbpats.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 00:16:28 -0500
From: "peretz" (b4453l@uky.campus.mci.net)
Subject: Re: [BOND] butterfly stitch
Here goes: You knit say, 10 rows and stop COR
You count over 10 stitches from the edge and push out the 10th needle, take
the hand latch tool or the seed stitcher, go down six rows and insert the
tool in the stitch and drop the stitch off the needle and let it ladder
down to the latch tool, then you go behind all the ladders up to the top
one hook it with the tool pull it down and under to the side of the
knitting facing you, pull the stitch up and place it back on the needle.
Then you go over 6 or 8 o 10 stitches (you decide on the pattern) and do
another. You make these all the way across then knit 10 more rows and do
another row of butterflies, staggering them so they fall between the ones
above. So you have something like this:
sssssssssO!OsssssssssO!OsssssssssO!Osssssssss
sssO!OsssssssssO!OsssssssssO!Ossssssssso!Osss
sssssssssO1OsssssssssO!OsssssssssO!Osssssssss
Here the s = regular knit stitch; theO!O is the butterfly; actually the !
should be the elongated stitch made by pulling the loop down through and up
again. The O's are the wings of the butterfly and the ! is the body.
This is a terrible explanation, but the best I can do. OH for phonevision,
I'd show you. Lee in KY
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 16:01:05 -0500
From: Ron and Donna Mardis (dmardis@kih.net)
Subject: [BOND] Aleene's Blister Stitch
Knit 4 R CC
Cut CC
Knit 6 R MY
Cut MY
Knit 2 R CC
Bring needles forward to HP
Use latch tool and insert in second R beneath MY (this would be the
third R up from hem and in the CC)
Unravel down to latch tool
With latch tool, go up behind the rungs (this would be the front side of
the sweater)
Grab the top rung of ladder and pull it down to the row that latch tool
is inserted in, then pull it toward you, then up in front of ladder and
hook it on the empty needle. This makes a tuck.
Count over 5 needles and repeat.
This completes one blister.
After repeating this across, move needles to FWP
They stopped at this point.
While she knitted 4 rows on the beginning, if I understood correctly,
you only knit 2 of the CC in the actual garment.
Hopefully, you experienced knitters will know what to do on the
following rows.
They showed a cardigan made with this stitch. The blisters are
alternated on the following rows, like this:
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
(X=Blister)
Looks something like a honeycomb.
Also said it is a good stitch for an afghan.
I hope this makes sense. It really doesn't appear to be too complicated
on the tape, however, this in my first attempt at instructions.
Good luck,
Donna in KY
dmardis@kih.net
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 11:53:42 -0500
From: "Debora Morrow" (insurex@dreamscape.com)
Subject: Re: [BOND] Bobbles
Margie,
Bobbles are easy to do. They are knit over 3 stitches and 4 rows. You take
a separate piece of yarn for each bobble. Knit the 3
stitches by hand for 4 rows. Push the stitches were the bobble is to the
front. Then use the transfer tool to rehang the first row of
bobble stitches back onto the needles. You will have two stitches on every
bobble needle.
It took me about 3 tries to master it. It is really quite simple.
Deb Morrow
insurex@dreamscape.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 1998 19:10:19 -0500
From: "Debora Morrow" (insurex@dreamscape.com)
Subject: Re: [BOND] Technique week
I tried something new, that was a little time consuming but did have nice
results. I for one, get tired of the normal ribbing at the
bottom of a sweater and figured I would try this next time I make a
cardigan.. Hopefully I can explain this.
This pattern is worked over 20 stitches.
Cast on with e-wrap. Knit one row. On stitch 2, 7, 14, 19 ladder down one
stitch and latch up one stitch.
Row 2 - using one prong tool, put stitch 4 on 5, and 5 on 4. and stitch 16
on stitch 17 and stitch 17 on 16. Knit row. For stitches 1, 3,
6, 8, 13, 15, 18, 20 ladder down one stitch and latch up..
Row 3- Repeat row one.
Row 4 - using one prong tool, put stitch 4 on 5, and 5 on 4. and stitch 16
on stitch 17 and stitch 17 on 16. Using two prong tool, place stitches 9&10
on needles 11& 12 and stitches 11&12 on needles 9&10. Knit row. For
stitches 1, 3,
6, 8, 13, 15, 18, 20 ladder down one stitch and latch up..
Repeat rows 1 - 4.
It really had a nice texture to it and after a little practice didn't take
that long to make up.
Debbie Morrow
insurex@dreamscape.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 09:38:44 -0500
From: ddfcsw@webtv.net (Dale Freundlich)
Subject: [BOND] Tech week
Deb, thanks for the new edging. You're right, regular ribbing does
sometimes get tedious. I found a hand knitting pattern for a cable rib
which I found worked well on the Bond.
Every third stitch is converted by laddering down in the "normal" way
for a rib.
Every 6th row, cross the first and second stitches making a mini cable
between purl stitches. Do this across row.
I did my laddering down at the same time I crossed stitches 1 & 2, 4 &
5, 7 & 8 etc. for convenience. I was pleased with the results.
Dale, in snowy CNY
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 13:38:55 +0000
From: "mccrary" (mccrary@pslibm.psl.nmsu.edu)
Subject: [BOND] Re: Cable look join
Have the wrong side of the two pieces to be joined facing you. Start
at the lower edge and with the 3-prong tool (you should have a tool
that has 1 one, 2 prongs and 3 prongs (these are for lifting stitches
and for crossing stitches to make cables). Take the tool with the 3
fork-like prongs and starting at the lower left side inner edge of
the panel put the prongs into 3 stitches. One prong in each stitch
and place on 3 machine needles. Knit 4 to 6 rows, you decide which
looks better to you. Pick up three stitches from the lower right
panel, one prong in each stitch and place these on the same needles
and knit 4 to 6 rows. Continue up the edges of each panel.
You could pick up one stitch at a time along the edge, 3
times, if you don't like using the 3-pronged tool. It just takes a
"tad" longer but is maybe less awkward.
panel left panel right
xxxx9 9yyyy
xxxx8 8yyyy
xxxx7 7yyyy
xxxx6 6yyyy
xxxx5 5yyyy
xxxx4 4yyyy
xxxx3 3yyyy
xxxx2 2yyyy
xxxx1 1yyyy
Pick up stitches 1, 2, 3 on the left first and place on 3 knitting
machine needles and knit 4 rows. Pick up the stitches on the right
panel (1,2, and 3) and place on top of the same needles and knit 4
rows. Pick up from the left panel stitches 4, 5, and 6 and knit 4
rows. Pick up from the right panel stithces 4, 5, and 6 and knit 4
rows. Continue up the sides of the two panels. When you pick up the
last 3 stitches (or what is left) knit one row and cast off.
Hope this helps,
Please write again if you need more help. It is no trouble at all.
Gloria
mailto:mccrary@psl.nmsu.edu
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 09:12:29 -0400
From: lpelt@juno.com
Subject: [BOND] Camp Iwannabethere Stitch Pattern/Technique
Good Morning Campers!
It's a reversible fabric that is done in two colors and does NOT curl!
It is not my original idea, it was developed by Margaret Carlson and was
featured in Bond magazine in Winter 1989. I made several pieces of it
yesterday and it is a bit heavy for sweaters, but great for placemats,
hot pads, coasters, stuff like that. Here goes:
1. Each piece is knitted twice-once on the front and once on the back.
Don't remove your hem when you turn the work!
2. You must have an ODD number of stitches.
3. Work Side 2 increases and decreases a row after than on side 1.
4. If you need a specifc size, SWATCH!
Side 1
Cast on an odd number of stitches with waste yarn and knit several rows.
Change to main yarn (MY) and knit 1 row. Put every other stitch on waste
yarn starting from second stitch from left. Put empty needles in NWP,
then knit the number of rows you need. Make a not of this number lest
you have too few or too many rows on the second side. Take stitches off
on 6 or 7 rows of WY and remove from machine. Don't remove the hem!
Side 2
Turn your work around the knit side is facing you. Transfer the
stitches you put on waste yarn at the beginning of Side 1to every other
needle. (You will have one less stitch than you used for Side 1) Put
empty needles into NWP. The fabric you made for Side 1 will roll towards
you. Using a contrast color (Or the same color if you prefer) knit 2
rows. *Using a transfer tool, pick up the floats from rows 1 & 2 of the
Side 1 fabric and place on working needles. Knit 2 rows. Repeat from *
until you have knitted the same number of rows as side 1. (That's why I
wrote it down!) All the floats are knitted into the second side.
To finish:
Method 1-Take stitches off on WY
Method 2-Put the stitches from Side 1 onto the empty needles and bind off
or
Method 3-Fill the empty needles with the Side 1 stitches and knit a few
rows before binding off to have a little roll at the edge.
That's it! A bit tedious with all the hand work, but a really neat
finished piece! I did some new potholders using Black Sugar & Cream
with a contrast of Varigated Mexicali. Really colorful and a bit like
stained glass. I also did a placemat with the same yarn, but in Green
and Cream. Very nice. I crocheted around the potholders, but not the
placemats. Those I did the roll edge on top and bottom. For the bottom,
I did an e-wrap cast on after knitting the waste yarn, then knit 6 rows
before setting up for every other needle knitting. After the last row of
Side 2 I put all needles into WP and put the stitches from Side 1 onto
the empty needles and knit 6 rows, then bound off. Pretty neat!
Hope you all enjoy this!
Laura
lpelt@juno.com
Jacksonville, Florida
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 10:17:06 -0500
From: "Ann Yotter" (gyotter@nash.tds.net)
Subject: [BOND] Knot Stitch
I also tried a new st I got off the Knitsmart video. Knot stitch. I don't
remember seeing it anywhere else. (That doesn't mean anything. My memory
at times is like swiss cheese!) You take 2 adjacent sts off onto the tool,
rotate them 360 deg and replace them. They twist tog and make a raised
bump on the front. You have to bring 4 needles out into FWP to knit the
row, as the sts are tight then like a cable. (You can also do the same
thing leaving 1 st inbetween them. Then it is a knot st with a bar.)
Of course I jumped in and started a Raspberry Bear Security Blanket using
the knot st in alternating rows with lace holes, a cable up the center, shaker
ribs at the sides and 3 rows of crochet cast on at each end to make them
lie flat. (I never learn to do one thing at a time.) This turned out to
be a lot of work. We are going to be VERY choosey about who gets this baby
item! It did turn out nice.
Next time I will space the knot st and lace holes a little farther apart. I was
using convenient numbers on the row counter to remember and they were
a little crowded. And next time on a flat object, I'm not going to convert sts
next to a cable. Cindy's Cable and Diamonds afghan that I learned cables
on, had a NWP needle laddering up next to the cable. The converted sts
pull in the work (like ribbing). Fine if you are wearing it like a sweater to
stretch it fabric out, but not for a blanket.
Ann in Tenn
gyotter@nash.tds.net
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 09:10:16 -0500
From: "Ann Yotter"
Subject: [BOND] celtic Braid cable
Hi all,
The celtic braid cable that Jody referred to comes from Hand Manipulated
Stitches by Guagliumi. She didn't call it that, I did, because it lookes
like the intricate 4 strand braided celtic designs. I just put it down an
afghan and love the look. Here is how to make it:
It takes 10 sts to make and you work your crossings every 3 rows. (I tried
lengthening it out some and it didn't look right.) St 1 and 10 will be
converted P on either side of the cable. (On the afghan, I left them as
ladders to keep from drawing up the fabric sideways. Cindy Polfer did this
on her Cables and Diamonds afghan in the Bond Afghans, Pillows, and Throws
Book. I tried it both ways and like them left laddered to make it lay
flat. Cindy was right! Convert them on anything else, like a sweater.)
To keep track of what you are doing on this, I got in the habit of crossing
the first pair of sts toward the carriage each time so you always know
which way to cross. The row with 2 crossings and the row with 1 crossing
have to cross opposite directions. Since you knit 3 rows between
crossings, the carriage position will always point you the right direction.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
First crossing row: Make a cable crossing using 2&3 with 4&5 and another
using 6&7 with 8&9. Knit 3 rows.
Now make a crossing using 4&5 with 6&7. Knit 3 rows.
Just keep repeating these 2 instructions and a braid will develop.
If you want a 3 strand braid, use 8 sts. Cross 2&3 with 4&5, knit 3 rows,
then cross 4&5 with 6&7, crossing the opposite direction. 1 and 8 will be
converted to set off the braid. Can you see 5 and 6 strand braids using
another pair of sts for each added strand?
Another hint from Cindy, I think she was the one who told me this last
year. Knit 2 rows past the row you work the cable. Undo just the cable
sts by putting your tools into the sts 2 rows down from the needles and
unravel all the sts in the 2 rows right above them. Cross the cable sts,
then work those 2 rows back by hand. This eases the strain on the needles
and you don't drop sts with the carriage. No moving needles in and out of
FWP. Just be sure to keep the loop of yarn from the 2 rows above out of
the way while you cross and rehang the cable sts.
And if you should have to stop in the middle, especially if you have to
remove sts from the machine, WRITE DOWN exactly where you are. Stop at an
easy to pick up spot, like "ready to knit 3 rows", or "ready to cross
cables, row with x crossings, COL" Whatever.
Ann in Tenn
gyotter@nash.tds.net
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 23:51:22 EDT
From: TIME4TAM@aol.com
Subject: [BOND] ripple stich
This is very time consuming for your first few projects. You will like your
Bond a whole lot better if you make several small or quick projects at first
to get you into the swing of things. Anyway, here are the directions that
someone gave me for making a ripple panel.
CO with a closed edge cast on to 25 needles. Knit 2 rows. transfer 12 stitches
on the left over one needle towards the center or "0" needle. Transfer 12
stitches on the right needles over 1 stich towards the center. Now you will
have three stitches on the one center needle and the last needle on each side
will be empty. keep the two empty needles in working position and knit two
more rows. Now repeat the above. You do this for about 260 rows and it gives
you a ripple pattern.
Tam in Tampa
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:51:01 -0500
From: "Ann Yotter"
Subject: [BOND] mock rib
Mock rib is done by leaving the sts that would be the converted ones in
regular ribbing in NWP and letting them ladder. When you take it off the
machine, it pulls tog and looks like ribbing. Much easier to do.
I haven't figured out how to eliminate the hole that forms when you go
to/from it to another st that uses all the needles. The pullover in
Collection #12 uses just mock rib all over. When I used mock rib for my
goose sweater, I got a line of eyelet holes where I went to st st for the
body of the sweater. They don't show too badly and probably would be even
less noticeable if the ribbing weren't stretched out almost to its max.
Maybe that is just the nature of the beast.
Ann in Tenn
gyotter@nash.tds.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 17:53:58 -0500
From: Scott and Kendel Darragh
Subject: Re: [BOND] Feather & Fan
The knitter making this piece (forgot her name) is using fan and
feather.
http://www.buttondale.com/charly.html
It's FABULOUS. I have it from Knitter's Magazine #42 on pg 34. I'll
try to give it to you here. Hope it works
- -=knit
/=transfer right stitch to next left needle and both back to right
needle(handknitting: k2tog)
\=transfer left stitch to next right needle and both back to left
needle (handknitting: ssk)
o=pull needle to fhp (handknitting: yarn over)
^= double decrease (handknitting: slip1-k2tog-pass stitch over)
I will only give the pattern rows. Between each pattern row, knit 3
rows plain.
- ----o-o-o//^\\o-o-o-o-o-o//^\\o-o-o----
- ----o-o-o//^\\o-o-o-o-o-o//^\\o-o-o----
- ----o-o-o//^\\o-o-o-o-o-o//^\\o-o-o----
- ---\\\o-o-o-o-o-o//^\\o-o-o-o-o-o///---
- ---\\\o-o-o-o-o-o//^\\o-o-o-o-o-o///---
- ---\\\o-o-o-o-o-o//^\\o-o-o-o-o-o///---
B E
The stitches above the letter B mark the beginning of a repeat, and the
stitches above the letter E mark the end.
This pattern was part of a shawl pattern and was designed to knit flat
and have selvege edges, thus the extra parts before and after the B & E.
I've only done this one by hand, just a bond beginner. Hope this makes
sense--my first attempt at e-mailing a stitch pattern. Swatch with it,
it's lovely!
Have fun!
Kendel
darraghs@ameritech.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 11:54:29 -0600 (MDT)
From: Ralph Shelton family
Subject: [BOND] Trellis stitch
I made a couple of swatches. I have "unvented" a stitch that I call the
Trellis stitch (it reminds me of a garden trellis). With KP1,
it seems to provide a nice, fairly stable stitch. The "trellis" stitch is
made by taking the odd numbered stitches and moving them
one needle to the left, K2R, then take the even numbered stitches and move
them one needle to the right, K2R, repeat these four rows
for the length desired. The "trellis" stitch has a bigger gauge than
straight stockinette with the same key plate, and has a nice,
airy, open lacy look, with about 4 stitches to the inch.
Minou in UT
hgtomato@earthlink.net
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 12:50:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Bev Merrow
Subject: [BOND] Tuck Stitch Pattern
Hi Guys!
A person on another MK list, confessed that they had a
favorite tuck stitch, er it might be a slip stitch I
get the two confused. Well I tried it out last night
and I think it's fabulous too! Both sides of the
knitting are usuable. The knit side looks like a
bumpy rib and the pearl side looks like diamonds.
Let's see if I can write clear instructions
1. pull forward 40 needles
2.cast on and knit several rows using your favorite
technique
3. pull needles 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20,
22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40 into holding
position. From now on I will refer to these as the
even-numbered-needles.
4. Knit two rows
5. Push the even-numbered-needles back into forward
working position (I like to be sure that the latches
are open too)
6. Knit 1 row
7. Pull needles 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19,
21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39 into holding
position. These will be referred to as the
odd-numbered-needles
8. Knit two rows
9. Push the odd-numbered-needles into forward working
position (check the latches)
10. Knit one row.
Repeat steps 3-10 until swatch is satisfactorily long.
I'm happy at 60 rows, but you stop where you want,
besides I'm still have guage problems with row counts.
Bind off using your favorite technique. And look at
both sides. Ahem...Beautiful texture, easy
patterning.. I love it!!!!!!!!!!
bev in nevada
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 20:19:30 -0800
From: "joe/marie"
Subject: [BOND] Just discovered something really neat!
I've always wanted to do huge stitches (like a size 17 handknitting
needle) on my Bond, and the only way I knew how to do large stitches was
to knit on every other needle. When you do this though, you get small
stitches with lots of space in between each one. You can always stretch
and block your garment afterwards, but somehow it never looks like a handknit
garment on really large needles. I just discovered that if you knit two needles
as one, it works perfect! Use two needle together, skip two needles, etc.
I just briefly experimented with this last night, but let me try to
explain a little.
You want to have 2 needles in WP, 2 needles in NWP, 2 in WP, 2 in NWP,
etc. However, the 2 needles in WP will be one stitch (one large stitch).
I guess for the cast on, you can do an open edge cast on that will have to
be finished somehow later on (like I said, I've only experimented briefly).
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 13:27:01 -0700
From: "Vicki and Dan"
Subject: [BOND] Big stitches
Hi everyone,
Another way to accomplish the look of large stitches is to drop off every
other stitch after knitting and let them run down to the hem bar and Voila!
Of course you need to swatch to determine how many stitches to cast on
and how many rows to knit. For instance if you knit 25 rows and then
drop off every other stitch your length will increase to about equal to the
same length as 50 rows of knitting.
Hope this is fairly clear to all, Its funny how these techniques all
seem so easy to us until we try to explain it without the benefit of pictures
or demonstrating in person.
Vicki in B.C.
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Author : Steph Thornton.
Last modified on : 3rd April 2000.