Bond Machine Knitting - Sideways Yoke Sweater Pattern

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 23:16:52 -0400
From: lpelt@juno.com
Subject: [BOND] Sideways Yoke Sweater Pattern

Hi Ya'll!
Better late than never-here's the pattern I promised for the sideways
sweater.  It's not 100% sideways, but I don't know how else to describe
it.  The sweater was inspired by Anne Bayes' Sydney Harbour Sweater, you
can see it at:

http://www.cricklade.ac.uk/amb/Garments/index.htm

The sweater pieces diagram is also there.  It makes it easy to print that
out, then transfer the row and stitch counts onto it for easier knitting.
 I will try to get a picture of this one so you can see it.  Enjoy!


Sideways Knit Yoke Sweater
By Laura Pelt, with thanks to Anne M. Bayes for the original inspiration

I used 5 colors of Red Heart yarn.  I bought an 8-ounce skein of each and
have lots left over.  I have used a bunch of it for hats and house socks,
so I really can't say with any authority how much it really took.  I also
do not use a row counter, so I can't tell you what your count should be. 
I did this with stripes 10 rows wide, separated with a 2-row stripe, so I
could keep count, but didn't write them down.  Sorry!

Finished Measurements:
Chest 35"
Length from top of shoulder to bottom of rib	 23"
Underarm seam 12.5 "

Gauge:  4 sts and 5 rows = 1" using Keyplate 4

Starting from sleeve cuff:
Cast on 40 sts using e-wrap.  
K 10 rows latch up for ribbing.  (I did 2x1 for mine, as it goes a bit
faster.)
K sleeve, increasing 1 st each edge every 6 rows  5 times, then
increasing 1 stitch each edge every 5 rows 3 times.  You should have a
total of 60 stitches when you are done.
Mark this row for underarm.
K 27 rows with no increases 

(Lots of claw weights work well for the next part, but you can use the
shorter hems.  To shape the neck, claw weights are really the better
way.)
For Left side:
Put stitches to the L of "0" into holding position or take off on waste
yarn.  
K 16 rows on remaining stitches.  Take off on 6 rows waste yarn.
Put needles from Hold position into Upper Working Position (or rehang the
stitches you removed onto the SAME needles you removed them from)
K 1 row, COL
*Pull the 4 needles on the far right into holding position, knit across.
COR
Wrap the yarn under the left side needle of the Hold group so you don't
get a hole.  Knit across.  COL
Repeat from * 6 times.
Pull the 3 needles on the far right into holding position, knit across. 
COR
Wrap the yarn under the Left side needle of the holding group and knit
across.  COL
Put all needles into Upper Working Position and knit across. COR
Take off on 6 rows of waste yarn.

For Right side:
Reverse shaping for left side.

Neckband:
With wrong side facing you, hang the neck edge from center back to center
front so that the bottom of the "V" is at the center of the bed and the
center back is at either end.  Try to hang the edge evenly as possible. 
Be sure to pick up BOTH strands of stitch at the end of the rows.  On the
"V" part, you can just pick up the stitches from the waste yarn.  Knit 1
row.
Now comes the fun part.  I don't like the lapped edges of a "V" neck, so
I sorta miter them.  It's a bit time consuming, but to me the result is
worth it.  Besides, it gives me practice with the bobby bar!
Move the stitch immediately to the left of "0" onto the needle
immediately right of "0".  Then take the stitch to the right of the
needle with two stitches and move it to the left, so that you have 3
stitches on one needle and an empty needle on either side of it.  
*Move the three stitches to the empty needle on one side, then use the
garter/bobby bar or 3-prong tool and transfer all the stitches over 2
needles.  You should have no empty needles in the middle, two empty
needles on one end.  Push the two newly emptied needles into NWP and knit
1 row.
Drop down the stitch on either side of the center stitch and latch up for
ribbing, but don't put it back on it's own needle.  Put it on the center
needle, again ending up with 3 stitches on one needle, and an empty
needle on either side of it. Knit another row.
Repeat from *  2 times more, for a total of 8 rows on the neckband.  Knit
1 row by hand to make a looser row.  Convert to 1x1 ribbing. Bind off in
ribbing using the latch tool.  To do this, insert the latch tool into the
purl side of each stitch and your cast off will look great and still have
stretch.

Body:
Anne's pattern called for knitting the body sideways, but since I had
stripes I wanted to knit it from the yoke to the ribs.  This is what I
did:
Pick up 70 stitches evenly between armhole markers.  Knit 71 rows. 
Thread a piece of sewing thread of a highly contrasting color through the
carriage and knit another row with the yarn and thread together.  This
marks where to stop dropping down for the ribbing.  
Knit 10 rows.  Ladder down to thread marker, convert to ribbing.  Hand
knit a loose row and bind off in ribbing.  Repeat for other side.

Finishing:
Remove marker threads.
Work in ends, block and sew up.  Enjoy!
Please feel free to ask any question if I wasn't clear about something. 
I had jotted down notes on the diagram from Anne's page and worked from
that.  

Laura
lpelt@juno.com

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Please e-mail any comments to me at steph@stephthornton.co.uk

Author : Steph Thornton.
Last modified on : 16th September 1998.