Bond Machine Knitting - Shaping
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 19:48:28 -0500
From: "Jimmy Simmons" (orion@mail.datasync.com)
Subject: [BOND] Decrease and increase formulas and instructions
OK, all, I'm going to post it to the list. Here they are and if you have
any questions or comments please let me know. I'm sure I must have made a
mistake somewhere here even though I proofread it a number of times. :-)
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
SHAPING A DIAGONAL EDGE:
To decrease, or increase, a known number of sts evenly spaced within any
number of rows, you have to add one unit to the number of sts to be inc (or
dec) to allow for the specified number of rows to be knit straight after
the last inc (or dec).
Example: I want to decrease from 24 sts to 20 sts over 20 rows:
20 rs / (4 + 1) = 4 rs (equals 20/5=4)
That is: work dec (or inc) very 4th row 4 times, then knit 4 rs straight.
In the sleeve example, there is 18 sts to be decreased in 96 rs. Since
this was two diagonals (each side) , we decrease a total of 36 sts, 1 sts
each side over 96 rows. (96 rs / (18 +1) = 5 rs SO, decrease one stitch
each side very 5 rows and knit 6 rows even. (Actually, you could put the 6
rows between a decrease anywhere in the sleeve, but I would add the extra
row either at the beginning or the end of the sleeve.) But, note that you
don't start with a dec, or inc, on row 1. You start it on row 5. Neither
do you end with a dec, or inc, on the last row. THIS IS WHAT MAKES IT AN
EVEN DEC, OR INC.
- ------------------------------------------------------------
SHAPING A DIAGONAL EDGE ACCOMPANIED WITH A STRAIGHT PART:
Do not add "1" to the divisor.
EX: 20 rs / 4 = 5 rs.
In this case work dec (or inc) ever 5th rw 4 times, then knit 5 rs straight
to accomplish the piece.
This diagonal will have the first dec (or inc) after knitting 5 rows and
the last dec (or inc) will be on the last row of the diagonal, just before
the first row of the straight part.
- -------------------------------------------------------
TO SHAPE A DIAGONAL EDGE ACCOMPANIED WITH A STRAIGHT PART ON BOTH ENDS:
Subtract "1" from the divisor
EX: 20 rs / (4-1) = 20/3=6 rs with 2 rs remaining. These two rows will be
dec (or inc) every 7th row (3-2+6)=7 two times <20-(3*6)=2>.
In this case work dec (or inc) at the beginning of the shaping, then dec
(or inc) 1 st every 7th row 2 times, 1 st every 6th r 1 time, then knit
straight to finish the piece.
This diagonal will have the first decrease on the first row and the last
decrease on the last row of the diagonal.
Hope this helps. I wish I could send a drawing with this, but
unfortunately I don't have a scanner as of yet. (I'm working on it.)
Jim
---
Jimmy L. Simmons
orion@datasync.com
http://www2.datasync.com/orion
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 12:32:03 -0500
From: "Jimmy Simmons" (orion@mail.datasync.com)
Subject: [BOND] Neckline pattern drafting
Hi everybody,
Here are some pattern drafting instructions for a crewneck neck opening.
They sound like a lot, but it's harder to describe how to do than to
actually do it.
Are you ready? Here we go.
SIZE: Measure around the neck, and divide this by 2. Then measure
around the head and divide this by 3. Use the larger of the two for the
size of your neck line. Remember, the first rule of neck openings is that
the head must fit through them. :-) SO, if you end up with a fraction of
an inch here, then round up to the next inch. (If it is 7-1/2" then make
it 8".)
EXAMPLE: Around the neck measures 14", then 14/2=7. Around the head
measures 24", then 24/3=8. Use the 8-inches for your neckline measurement.
FRONT NECK OPENING: The easiest way is to take a sheet of paper and
draw this out so you can see what it looks like. Now, divide the neckline
figure by 2. (8/2=4). Draw a rectangle on your paper that is 8" X
4". The 4" will be the distance from the shoulder line down the front of
the sweater, and the 8" will be the distance across the shoulders. Now
the fun part...Divide the short side by 4 (4/4=1). Measure down 1" from
the top on each side and mark it. Divide the bottom side by 3 (8/3 =
2-5/8"). Put a tic mark 2-5/8" from each side on the bottom (this divides
the bottom in thirds). Now, draw a diagonal line from the left hand tic
mark on the bottom to the tic mark that's 1" down from the top on the left
side. Do this to the right side also. Divide this diagonal line by 2. and
make a tic mark there. Draw a line from this tic mark on the diagonal line
down to the corner of the rectangle, and divide this line by 4, then measur
down the 1/4 from the top of this line and make a tic mark there.
Now...make a smooth curve from the top of the diagonal that starts 1" from
the top of the neckline, through the last tic mark you made, and continue
on to the end of the diagonal that's 1/3 of the bottom of the neckline. If
you do this on both sides of the neckline you can see the shape quite well
in your drawing.
BACK NECK OPENING: This will be the same width as the front neck opening,
and the depth will be about one-inch.
When this neck is knitted on the machine, you will put one-half the
stitches on the machine plus the number of stitches required to knit
1/3 of the neckline width. (in my example 2-5/8"). Use the calculations
that I gave before for a diagonal with a straight edge on one end. (The
top end).
After you finish this side take it off on waste yarn, reset your row
counter, and put the needles that you have on hold back into the
working position. (Don't forget to open all the latches) and do a reverse
shaping on the other side of the sweater.
Hope this helps you. Just draw it out on a piece of paper and you
will see how easy it really is.
Jim
---
Jimmy L. Simmons
orion@datasync.com
http://www2.datasync.com/orion
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 23:13:40 -0800
From: "Diane Reed"
Subject: [BOND] short row alternative for v neck shaping
Keep in mind I haven't tried this but I have heard of this technique. You
take needles out of work for the v neck but knit straight across leaving a
string between the two sides. Then when finished you zig zag right on the
edge and cut out the strings. This would work if you were putting a
finished edge on it. Just a thought,
Diane Reed
ok
dreediv@telepath.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 10:52:32 -0500
From: "Lea-Ann@knittingtoday.com"
Subject: Re: [BOND] Need help with short row shaping pretty please
Hi: Good suggestion Jayne about doubling up that center stitch . .
. . another tip is to try the intarsia keyplate if you have it (make
sure your gauge matches first though) and knit both sides of the v-
neck at the same time so you don't have to remember where the
decreases were made. Lea-Ann
> Shortrowing is a possibility on a V-neck, but my preferred
> way is full fashion decreases. Put one half on waste yarn
> or in hold, whatever your preferred method. I prefer waste
> yarn so the stress at the first decrease is taken from the
> garment.
Lea-Ann@knittingtoday.com
http://knittingtoday.com -- knitting supplies
Bond Knitters' Club Online! -- http://www.userhome.com/knittingtoday
Author : Steph Thornton.
Last modified on : 25th January 2000.
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