Bond Machine Knitting - Hat Patterns
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 08:57:20 -0800
From: bahrens@pacbell.net
Subject: [BOND] Hat pattern
Hi Guys,
Here is a great little pattern I made up to try some of those fancy
stitches on....Hope you like it......
Butterfly Hat
1 skein (3.5 ounces) Plymouth Encore Knitting Worsted Weight Wool Blend
Yarn
(or any Worsted Weight Wool Blend Yarn)
Keyplate dot 3
CO 80 needles with WY....K 6 R......CO with MC and K 10 R.......Starting
at either end do a butterfly stitch at every 10th needle........Push al
needles to FWP....Knit 1 R slowly....K 9 more rows...Starting at 5 the
5th needle in from the end make butterflies in between the other
butterflies you already....Row counter reads 20..... Push all needles to
FWP....Knit 1 R slowly....K 9 more rows........Butterfly at every 10th
stitch as you did in row 10.....Repeat alternate butterfly pattern to
row 50.......Knit 10 rows straight....Drop down every third stitch 6
rows and latch up to form a 3x1 rib.....Back stitch BO...... Remove hem
and gather stitches....Sew side seam and add pom pom to top...Hide yarn
ends and your done...
*You could also do a rolled edge by not doing the ribbing and just
BO....Then just let it roll the way it wants to...
*Or you could do a picot edge by K 5 R....Then transfer every third
stitch over one stitch leaving a hole...Make sure all needles are still
in WP with LATCHES OPEN....Knit 5 more rows....CO onto WY and then fold
over and finish like before....
You could use this pattern to practice any number of fancy
stitches....At every 4th row and every 5th stitch do a twisted stitch to
form cables.......OR..........Every 10th row do 2 rows in a contrasting
color for stripes......OR........Use your multi prong transfer tools on
every other needle at every 5th row to make eyelet holes......Or make
bobbles every 10 rows and 10 or 5th stitch.....The possibilities are
endless........
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 03:22:11 -0500
From: "Jimmy L. Simmons"
Subject: [BOND] French Beret
Fellow Bonders,
As promised, here is the beret. It did turn out lovely (even if I do say so
myself). It knits up quickly. After I got the design down in schematic
form, it took me about 5 hours total. And that included writing (and
re-writing) the instructions. You should be able to turn it out in 2 or 3
hours. ENJOY!
Jim Simmons
orion@datasync.com
Gautier, Mississippi
Pay no attention to what the critics say. A statue
has never been erected in honor of a critic. -- Jean Sibelius
F R E N C H B E R E T
Designed and copyrighted 1998 by Jimmy L. Simmons: This beret is submitted
to my friends on the Bond Knitting list for their enjoyment. Permission is
hereby granted to them to freely copy and pass these instructions along to
their knitting friends...as long as this copyright notice is included. This
pattern may not be sold or used for commercial purposes to make a profit.
These instructions are purposely quite detailed so that the ISM beginner can
be successful in knitting it. More experienced knitters will probably be
bored reading all the details. Nevertheless, It is a good exercise and a
good learning experience for practicing short row techniques. Not to mention
the proper use of weights and the fun of watching it come
together...seemingly all by itself and like magic.
This beret was designed, and knitted, for my DW, Jacqueline, who has a head
girth of 23-inches, but since it has an elastic band it should fit just
about any adult.
Yarn: 2-1/2 oz (70 GMS) Lion Brand Wool-Ease
Color: White Frost 501
Content: 70% Acrylic, 20% Wool, 10% Polyamid
Where purchased: Walmart
Materials needed:
Yarn,
Elastic band,
Claw weights (3 or 4)
Knitted on the Bond ISM
Keyplate #3 (dot)
Gauge: 16 st, 22 r = 4 inches (10CM). [4 st 6.5 row = 1 inch (2.5CM)].
ABREVIATIONS:
COR = Carriage On Right
COL = Carriage On Left
FWP = Forward Working Position (Needles are forward of the working position,
but will be knitted)
FHP = Forward Holding Position (Needles pulled forward as far as they will
go and will not be knitted)
NWP = Non Working Position (Needles are all the way back and out of work)
RC = Row Count
WP = Working Position
L = Left (Needles to the left of "0"
R = Right (Needles to the right of "0"
NOTE: This beret is knitted in 6 identical sections, but is not removed
from the machine when knitting from one section to the next. Before
starting this project, read and make sure you understand all instructions.
By doing this, you will be assured of a finished beret that will make us
both proud.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Cast on 30 stitches Using the short hem, and a ravel cord, with a yarn of
contrasting color.
NOTE: Do the cast-on on needles #L12 - 0 - #R18 (12 needles to the left of
"0" and 18 needles to the right).
Knit 6 or 8 rows with the waste yarn and break it off...COR; . (Set
the Row Counter to 000).
Thread the carriage with the main yarn, and attach a clothes pin on the free
end of the yarn to hold it.
SECTION ONE:
Carefully, knit 1 row...30 st in WP; (COL);
NOTE: STOP AT THIS POINT AFTER KNITTING THE SIXTH SECTION, AND GO TO
FINISHING.
(* ) Knit 1 row, then place needle #R18 to FHP...29 st in WP; (COR);
.
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R17 to FHP...28 st in WP; (COR); .
NOTE: On the first section this is a good point to pull the ravel cord and
drop the hem. Use the claw weights to keep tension on the fabric. Hang
claw weights so that they keep tension on the ends and center needles that
are in WP. Re-position the claw weights ever 2 rows, or so. Watch the
knitting. If it tends to bunch at a particular spot then move the weights
to keep the tension balanced. This is the secret of even knitting with no
splits or stitches dropping.
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R16 to FHP...27 st in WP; (COR); .
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R15 to FHP...26 st in WP; (COR); .
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R14 to FHP...25 st in WP; (COR); .
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R13 to FHP...24 st in WP; (COR); .
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R12 to FHP...23 st in WP; (COR); .
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R11 to FHP...22 st in WP; (COR); .
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R10 to FHP...21 st in WP; (COR); .
knit 2 rows, then place needle #R9 to FHP...20 st in WP; (COR); .
knit 2 rows, then place needle #R8 to FHP...19 st in WP; (COR); .
knit 2 rows, then place needle #R7 and #L12, #L11, #L10, and #L9 to FHP...14
st in WP; (COR); .
Knit 1 row, place yarn under needle #L9 and over needles #L10 - #L12. If
you don't do this, it will leave a hole. This always should be done when
you do short rows by pulling out needles on the opposite side of the
carriage...14 st in WP; (COL); .
Move the claw weight on left side so that it keeps tension on #L8.
Knit 1 row, then place needle #R6, #L8 and #L7 to FHP...11 st in WP; (COR);
.
Knit 1 row, Place yarn under needle #L7 and over #L8-#L12...11 st in WP;
(COL); .
Knit 1 row, then place needle #R5, #L6, #L5, and #L4 to FHP...7 st in WP;
(COR); .
Knit 1 row, then place needle #R4 to FHP. place yarn under needle #L4 and
over #L5 - #L12...6 st in WP; (COL); .
Knit 1 row, then place needles #L3 and #L2 to FHP. Place yarn under needle
#R4 and over #R5 - #R18...4 st in WP; (COR); .
Knit 1 row, Place yarn under needle #L2 and over #L3 - #L12. Then place
needles #R4 - #R18 into FWP. Make sure that latches are open and the fabric
is behind the latches...4 st in WP and 15 st in FWP. (COL)
CAREFULLY Knit 1 row, then place needles #L2 - #L12 in WP. Make sure the
latches are open and the fabric is behind the latches. Reset the row
counter to 0...19 st in WP and 11 st in FWP; (COR); .
This completes section one. Now that you have all 30 needles back into
working position, repeat the instructions for the first section starting at
"*" five (5) more times for a total of six (6) sections.
After knitting the sixth section you should have all 30 needles in WP; COL;
.
Break the yarn leaving a tail of about 2 or 3 feet. Remove the yarn from the
carriage and hang a clothes pin on the free end to keep it under tension.
Then move the carriage to the right side of the machine and thread it with
your contrasting waste yarn.
Knit 6 or 8 rows with the waste yarn, and remove the fabric from the
machine.
Pull 30 needles to FHP and place the green cards behind them to hold them.
With the right side of the fabric facing you, use the single-end transfer
tool to pick up the 30 stitches (one at a time) from one end that has the
waste yarn attached and hang these stitches on the needles.
Now, fold the fabric up and hang the 30 stitches from the other end than has
the waste yarn on it on the same needles. (The right side
should be on the inside and facing each other.) You should have two
stitches on each needle.
Use your favorite method of binding off these stitches. (I used the winding
method). Then remove it from the machine. It does look like a French
beret, doesn't it?
FINISHING:
There will be a small hole in the top of the beret. Take a short length of
yarn and a yarn needle to make a draw string around the hole and pull it
closed.
Turn, and sew, a hem of about 1/2 inch around the head-hole. Be sure to
leave an opening to place the elastic band in. Put the elastic band in the
hem, and sew the ends of the elastic together.
Make an I-cord about 1.5 inches long and attach it to the top.
Place the beret on your head and show it off. Mais oui, madame, c'est tres
jolie...et tres chic, n'est pas?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1998 00:41:50 EDT
From: PHe1290189@aol.com
Subject: [BOND] Slouch Hat
The slouch hat is basically a wide strip knitted the length you want. I
followed their pattern for the same guage I got on the Bond but it came out a
bit too big.
For Ronni's I used keyplate # 3 and hung 90 sts.
I did st st for 50 rows.
Then COL I back stitched the piece off.
I picked up 86 sts on the other end and HK the ribbing for 6 rows.
Now fold in half and weave the side(back)seam.
This gives you a tube with the top open.
I did weaving or you can sew the top straight across which gives you a square
hat.
The next step is to tip the corners over like ears adn tack them down.
Then roll up from the ribbed bottom to create a "slouch hat" being slightly
large gave it a slouchy comfy fit.
The pattern shows different ways to fold and fiinsh the tube for different
effects.
For the boys I will make it smaller across probably 72 or so sts and not knit
quite as many rows. probably 40 rows. The rest I'll play with till I am happy.
Here is a rough sketch:
/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx\
/ x x \
/ x x \
\\ x x//
x x
x x
x xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Well never said I could draw!
If you don't tack the ears down and add tassles to them it looks like a
jesters hat.
If you divide the top of the tube unsewn into four folds and bring the base
of the folds together it creates like 4 petals. Sew them toward the center and
top with tassles or pom poms.
If you're really creative I bet the variations could be terrific. Have fun.
Pat
PHE122900189@AOL.com
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 14:08:28 -0800
From: Lu Kelce
Subject: [BOND] Mock Ribbing
Hello all you busy Bonders:
I thought we needed a new challenge today ;)
So here is a little exercise in MOCK RIBBING for those who
have found ribbing up a ?pain?
This hat is for a child or small adult. You may make it
larger by adding the required # of st. and rows.
MOCK RIBBING INSTRUCTIONS
1. Push the required number of needles to Holding Position
(HP)
2. Hang hem weight.
3. Push Every Other Needle (EON) back to Non Working
Position (NWP), beginning with the second needle in.
4. Cast on to the remaining needles and knit several rows of
Waste Yarn (WY)
5. Knit one row of Ravel Cord if you wish.
6. Thread up the Main Yarn (MY) and using a Keyplate one
size smaller than you intend to use for the item you are
knitting, knit twice the number of rows indicated for the
ribbing of the item.
7. Hang the stitches from the waste yarn placing these
"floats" on the needles in NWP.
8. Change to the recommended Keyplate.
9. Put all needles in FWP and knit the remaining rows of the
item.
10. After removing the knitting from the machine, remove WY
by pulling out the Ravel Cord.
11. Insert a ruler or yardstick into the casing formed and
pull down.
SIMPLE STOCKING HAT
Material: One 3 ounce skein worsted weight yarn
Large needle for sewing up.
Gauge: 4 st and 6 rows
Keyplate # 2 and # 3
Using method above, CO 85 sts.
Knit 20 rows for ribbing. (This # is already doubled.)
Hang sts on empty needles for hem.
Knit 45 - 50 rows. COR
Move Every Other Stitch to the next needle, beginning with
the second needle in, (From either side. It depends on
whether you are right or left handed.)
Knit 2 rows.
Cut yarn leaving an 18 inch end.
Thread yarn end through stitches on needles and remove from
machine.
Draw stitches up tightly and secure.
Sew side seam.
Make a pom-pom or rose for the top of the hat.
ROSE
CCO 35 stitches.
Knit 3 rows with # 4 Keyplate.
Knit 3 rows with # 2 Keyplate.
Move EO st. to next needle and remove from machine as in
above instructions.
Roll knitted piece up you draw up the stitches and secure at
the bottom.
Use in place of a pom-pom.
Give this a try if you like. It's a quick way to make a hat.
- --
Happy Knitting
Lu Kelce in Riverside, Ca.
"Everything is always NEW to someone"
http://kelulu@pacbell.net
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 08:08:03 -0600
From: "S. Dale"
Subject: [BOND] Hat patterns
I have been making lots of hats and scarves for Christmas.
The solution I have hit upon for the best way to make the
hats is as follows:
Hang the hem on 73 stitches and knit a few rows in waste
yarn. Knit about 25 rows in main yarn (put your fairisle
here if you want it). Knit a few more rows in waste yarn.
Take it off the bond and seam up the ends using invisible
seams. You should have 72 stitches left, if you used a
half-stitch from each side for the seam. Then begin the
decreases either on circular or double pointed needles: knit
7, knit 2 together all around, then knit a round. Knit 6,
knit 2 together, all around, then knit a round. Continue
down doing this down to knit 1, knit 2 together. Instead of
knitting the next round, repeat the knit 1, knit 2
together. Clip the yarn with several inches left, thread it
on a yarn needle, and run it through all the stitches and
pull through the center to tighten. Tie off.
Then I do a knit one, purl one ribbing with a smaller
circular needle for a couple of inches around the bottom.
Anyway, my point is that you can mix hand and bond very
nicely, using the bond to do most of the drudge work and
then finishing by hand. I would guess that your patterns
have large rectangular areas which could be easily bonded
and the rest done by hand.
Susan in Nebraska
mailto:rd35031@navix.net
http://www.buttondale.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 11:05:22 EST
From: Smithercol@aol.com
Subject: Re: [BOND] Hat patterns
Hi Susan,
In a message dated 12/4/98 10:35:52 AM, you wrote:
"Then begin the decreases
either on circular or double pointed needles: knit 7, knit 2 together all
around, then knit a round. Knit 6, knit 2 together, all around, then knit a
round. Continue down doing this down to knit 1, knit 2 together. Instead of
knitting the next round, repeat the knit 1, knit 2 together."
For those who don't hand knit, you could do something similar to this with a
garter bar. Don't seam the sides first, however. Move each stitch that is
to be decreased onto an adjacent needle. Take the stitches off on the garter
bar. (Don't turn) Rehang the stitches in groups taking all the empty spaces
out by moving the bar over one needle after hanging the double stitches. You
will probably have to take the hem off at some point and hang claw weights
instead. Just a suggestion for totally machine knitters.
Colleen in Ada MI
Smithercol@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/knitnotes/home
Author : Steph Thornton.
Last modified on : 5th December 1998.
