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Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 06:42:45 -0700 From: Naomi Moore (gnomi@ibm.net) Subject: [BOND] Hand Knit to Machine Knit Pattern Conversion A few people have asked for methods of converting handknit patterns into machine knit patterns. This is what I have devised for myself so far: 1) Use the program GraphPaper, which is available at various sites. (I would try http://www.shareware.com and search for "graph" or "paper" under "all versions of Windows. I think the file name is gpaper.exe.) This program is designed for Win 3.1 but works just fine in Win95. Anyhow, the beauty of this little program is that you can set the graph paper to anything you want, as well as have bold lines. Play with it to see what you can produce. I set up the graph so the squares become longer, turning into rectangles. 2. Determine your gauge by making swatches with your keyplate. If there are colors in your pattern, such as for a fair isle technique, swatch with those as well as this will influence your gauge. Wash and dry your swatch and then measure it, using your handy ruler to determine stitches per inch and per row (the latter is important if you are doing an intarsia design). Compare it with gauge suggested by the pattern. If you are doing plain knitting, don't worry too much about the handknit pattern rows-per-inch. I usually will make a swatch using the different keyplates, dividing them by making eyelets to demarcate them. This way I will know which keyplate did what (be sure to write down the keyplates you used if some time will pass between swatch and project!). 3. Next step is to convert hand knit stitches and rows per inch to match your chosen keyplate. For example, if the pattern says "20 st. and 24 rows = 10 cm (4 in.)" then you know that you need 5 st. per inch and 6 rows per inch for the handknit pattern. Let's say your chosen keyplate gives you 5.25 st. per inch and 6.25 rows per inch. You have chosen to knit a size medium, casting on 100 st. for the back, increasing after ribbing to 110 stitches. 5 into 110 gives a measurement of 22 inches. Using your calculator, multiply 22 by 5.25 and the result is 115.5. Look at the pattern. Is the large pattern close to this in number, by one or 2 stitches? If yes, then cast on as if for the large pattern. Make a note somewhere of this. If you are knitting just a plain pattern, solid colors, then just note the length to the armhole decrease if there is one, or to the shoulder. Take that length, say of 15 inches (in size medium since that is what size you are), and multiply 6.25 by 15 to get a total of 93.75 rows. Choose 94 or 93 rows. BUT!! Does the pattern read "15 inches from beginning of ribbing"? If it does, then you must subtract the ribbing length if you add the ribbing by turning your knitting over, or by knitting it later by hand. Thus, if your ribbing is 2.5 inches, you need to subtract the 2.5 from 15, resulting in 12.5 inches. This then is multiplied by your rows per inch: 12.5 x 6.25 = 78.13 rows. Choose 78 rows. Write this down. You will also apply this to your armhole length and sleeve length, alway accounting for ribbing or other finishes. If your swatch is similar in size to your handknit pattern, use the same decreases for armholes and for sleeves and collars and necklines. For necklines you might add an extra decrease to make sure the neck is not too tight on a crew or turtleneck. The problem comes from intarsia or other geometric patterns. My own experience as a handknitter leads me just say follow the pattern as written, perhaps adding a few rows of plain knitting, or an extra pattern if you knit more rows per inch than the pattern. Our hypothetical swatch was smaller than the handknit swatch recommendation, so this is where you would add. If your swatch is looser than suggested, you can subtract some rows. If it is a large or complicated pattern, work out the math by converting the rows per inch into your new gauge. Thus, if you have a repeat pattern of 27 rows, 27 divided by 6 is 4.5 inches. 27 rows divided by 4.32 inches. Over 22 inches from bottom to top, there will by a possible loss of length that may or may not be worth worrying about; this is something you need to determine. You can determine this somewhat by dividing your pattern repeat length for the handknit into the total finished sweater length. For instance, if your total sweater is 22 inches, not including ribbing, the pattern is 22 inches x 6 rows per inch, for a total of 132 rows in the handknit pattern. If you just follow your 27 row pattern, you will need to multiply your machine rows by 22, which is 137.5 rows. This is close enough or not, depending on the nature of the pattern as well as your own taste. 4. Ok, so now about the graph paper. In each square I write down the row number, if I need to increase (I) or decrease (D), change a pattern or a color. So, for a sleeve, in plain knit with increases every 3rd row, I would have in each box the following (read each line as a different box): 1 1 1, I 1 1 1, I For stripes I have done the following: 1 1 1, I 1, A (for contrast color A) and so on. The point is to devise your own short hand. I write P for Pattern for a fair isle technique, so: 1 1 1, I, PA Each time I do something, I cross it off AFTER I do it; you might want to do it BEFORE you do it, but until you determine your style, write down in your notes what you are doing (i.e. crossing out each letter as you do it, or before you do it) so that you will not forget it. I don't have a row counter for my ISM, though I may get one soon enough for just plain knitting; it would be easier I know that. But for now, this is working out just fine for me. Oh, for pattern repeats, I put bold lines between each repeat. At the moment I am working on a sweater with the following design: - --x---x-- - --x---x-- - --x---x-- - --x---x-- x---x---x x---x---x x---x---x x---x---x Here, I have a bold line between every 4th square so that it reminds me to change colors and patterning. All this is pretty windy, so I hope it helps. I expect that the various knitting software programs might also be of some help, but I don't like to do everything on the computer! Naomi gnomi@ibm.net ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 21:50:15 -0500 From: cpolfer@juno.com (Cindy S Polfer) Subject: [BOND] Knitting through back loop If you knit through the back loop in hand knitting you are twisting the stitch. To do this on the Bond work the following: Before knitting the row where you knit through the back loop, do this to the designated stitch. With your 1-prong transfer tool, insert tool into the stitch hanging on the needle from knit side to purl side (that is, from the side of fabric closest to the bed and poking your tool out of the stitch pointing towards you). Drop your stitch onto the tool by pushing the needle butt forward and then back, dropping the stitch onto the tool. Now take your tool (it should be lying horizontal) and turn it CLOCKWISE 180 degrees so that the 1-prong tool end touches the empty needle hook. Place stitch on needle. When you knit the row with your carriage, you will be knitting through the back loop. Hope this answers your question. If not, e-mail me. Sincerely, Cindy Polfer - cpolfer@juno.com Big Rock, IL
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Author : Steph Thornton.
Last modified on : 1st July 1998.