From: "Ann Yotter" Subject: Elephant Hat Well, I got the elephant done and I think he's cute! Here are the instructions. Use worsted wgt yarn and keyplate 3. I made him in grey, but have a pink one planned with ombre yarn around the face. Will note where I plan to change colors for that. To make him all one color takes a little over 6 oz. I ran out of a 6 oz sk . Still had to do ears. Also need a small amt of white and black. * Cast on 78 sts onto WY in grey, pink or ombre. * K 60 rows, rehang bottom to form hem and work a row across to catch 2 sts. (*At this point use ombre another 1", then change to elephant color.) * Now decrease 1 st on each side every 3rd row 11 times. I worked them by moving the outer 2 sts in 1 st each so the dec was not on the edge st. - 94 rows * Now work dec every 4th row until 10 sts remain. * K 2 tog across on next row - 5 sts. * Draw up last 5 sts with the yarn tail and fasten tightly, then sew seam closed with attached yarn end. * Lay hat flat with seam down centered in back side. * Sew ears to hat along folded side edge with top of ear 6" down from hem joining row. * Sew tusks 1" below bottom edge of ears. Place them curving out, just slightly behind the folded edge and attach to the back layer only. * Sew eyes between ears centered vertically to front layer only with the long tail left from making white part. EARS: (Make 2) With elephant color and G hook, ch 8. DC in 2nd st from hook and in each ch across. - 7 dc counting turning ch. Ch 2, turn. Row 2: Increase 1 st on this row while working dc in top of dc across row. (I increase by working into the base of the turning ch where it always looks like a st is missing.)- 8dc Row 3-9: Repeat row 2 until there are 15 dc. Row 10: Work 5 dc, then 5 hdc, then 5 sc. End off, leaving long tail to sew onto hat. TUSKS: (Make 2) With white, ch 2, work 4 sc in end loop. Do not join. Rnd 2: Work even. Rnd 3: (sc in sc, 2sc in sc) repeat around. - 6 sc Rnd 4 & 5: Work even. Rnd 6 &7: Work as for Rnd 3. - 13 sc. Rnd 8-14: To make tusk curve, crochet 2 sc tog on one side of round and 2 sc in 1 sc on the other side. Work even in between these sts. Be sure to work the inc and dec in the same place each time. Rnd 15 & 16. Work even. End off, leaving a long tail to attach to hat. EYES: (Make 2) With white, ch4, join. Work sc around in loop and join. I didn't count, just worked what I could get in and still lay flat, about 8. Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in sc half way around circle. End off, slip st the last loop down. Leave long tail to sew on eye. EYE CENTER: (Make 2) With black, ch4, leaving about 6" off first loop, join, end off, leaving another 6". Thread 1 black tail thru center of white and the other thru work toward bottom edge and tie together behind. The half rnd of white is the top of the eye, the black is on lower half so elephant looks down. Enjoy! Ann Yotter, Portland, Tenn ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 14:40:38 -0500 From: "Ann Yotter" (firstname.lastname@example.org) Subject: [BOND] Yipes, an error in my pattern Hi all, I just made a pink elephant hat to donate to a charity and discovered an error in my pattern. It has been about 6 months since I made it and posted it to the list. I couldn't find what I worked from the first time, so pulled the pattern out of e-mail. Anyway, the tusks aren't right. They ended up looking like a wine glass instead of a tusk. And I don't know where the error crept in from, but when you increase your sts making the tusks, only go to 9 scs instead of 13. Increase on Rnd 6, but not on Rnd 7. Work it even. Anyone with this pattern on your web site (Ayjay, Steph) needs to change Rnd 7 to read "Work even." or add this note. Sorry if this caused anyone a problem. Ann in Tenn -------- Date: 12 Nov 2000 From: "Ann Yotter" (email@example.com) Subject: Pattern update I recently updated my elephant hat so the ears and tusks are knitted instead of crocheted and added a peanut for him. Ears: Knit 4 ears, making 2 of them mirror images with the shaping reversed from the right side to the left. I used a short hem, but you could use a whole hem and knit 2 at a time with 2 yarn balls, leaving a space between them so the hem stays balanced. Using WY, cast on 21 sts and knit a few rows. Knit a row of ravel cord or #10 crochet cotton thread to make removal of WY easy later. Row 1,2 - Knit with main color, leaving about 30" of tail for future sewing and bindoff. - 21 sts Row 3 -Increase 1 st at each edge by moving the end st out 1 needle, then hang the purl bump under the 2nd st from the edge on the empty needle. Knit the row. - 23 sts Row 4 - Increase 1 st on the right side by moving the 2 outside sts over 1 needle, then hanging the purl bump under the 2nd st in from the edge onto the empty needle. Knit the row. - 24 sts At this point hang extra weight on the edges so the edge sts form, using at least 2 oz on each side to keep the edge from drawing up when it is done. Keep moving them up close to the row as you knit. Row 5 - Increase 1 st on right edge (see row 3), knit row - 25 sts Row 6 - Increase 1 st on both edges in same manner, knit row - 27 sts Row 7 - Increase 1 st on right edge, knit row - 28 sts Rows 8-10 - Knit even with no increases. Row 11 - Decrease 1 st on right edge by moving the 2 outer sts in one needle each. This puts the doubled up st on the 2nd needle from the edge. Push the empty needle back to NWP. Knit the row - 27 sts Row 12 - Decrease 1 st on right edge (see row 11), knit row - 26 sts Row 13 - Decrease 1 st on both edges, knit row - 24 sts Row 14 - Decrease 1 st on right edge - 23 sts Row 15 - Decrease 1 st on both edges - 21 sts Row 16 - Decrease 1 st on right edge - 20 sts Row 17 - Decrease 1 st on both edges - 18 sts Row 18 - Decrease 1 st on both edges - 16 sts Row 19 - Decrease 1 st on right edge as before. On the left edge, decrease 2 sts by moving the 3rd st from the edge onto the 4th needle in, then move both outside sts over to the 3rd needle from the edge. Push the 2 empty needles back out of work. Knit the row - 13 sts Row 20 - Decrease 1 st on both edges - 11 sts Row 21 - Decrease 2 sts on each edge in the manner used on the left side of row 19. Knit the row, then pull all the sts a little larger than normal, working yarn into the sts from the tail leading to the skein. Or you can change to keyplate 4 for this row only. Starting at the st on the side opposite the carriage and yarn end, take the st off onto the latch tool and place behind the latch, take the next st onto the tool and pull it thru the first st. Keep taking off a st and pulling it thru the existing st until all are bound off and pull the tail thru the last st, tightening it down. Leave a short tail to knot inside and weave in. With right sides together of 2 mirror images ear pieces and using one of the tails from the beginning, sew the 2 ear pieces together along the outside edge. Leave the sts on WY open. Tie the tails from the bind off together to secure them. Turn the ear inside out and hang the 19 sts onto the knitting machine so every needle has a st from both front and back pieces. Remove the WY by pulling the ravel cord out, first pulling on it hard from both ends to straighten it out to avoid cutting the plastic hem. Using the other long starting tail, knit manually each st together, pulling the sts longer than normal, as you will bind them off in the same manner as the ear piece was ended. After the sts have been knit, remove the edge weights and bind the sts off starting from the side away from the yarn end using the latch tool. Pull the tail thru the last st and tighten it down. Knot to the other tail used to sew the ears together, then continue using that piece to sew the bound off edge to the hat. (work the shorter tail into the seam after it is sewn.) Lay the hat flat with the seam centered on the back side. Attach the ear along the edge by butting the bound off edge to the fold and sew a whip st thru the bound off st and a whole st along the hat edge. The sts on the hat will not follow a column of knitting since the fold crosses the knitting at an angle. Just take at least 2 strands thru the hat. Position the ears so their top edges are about 6" down from the joining row for the hem (row 61). Sew eyes so they are centered up and down in respect to the ears. Sew tusks along folded edge just under the ears about 1". Alternate garter st ear: If you have a garter bar, you might use this ear to practice using it. You may also work garter st by putting sts onto WY each row and rehanging or slide a straight knitting needle through all the sts, remove from the machine, turn the work and slip each st back onto the needles. Make the ear above, but each time you knit a row, turn the work with the garter bar before doing any stitch manipulations for the next row. Work the increases and decreases on the edge st instead of a couple sts in. You will need to mark 1 edge of the work in this case to keep track of the "right" edge, as it isn't always on the right. You will only need to make 2 of these, as they lay flat and don't need to be double layered to prevent curling. Tusks: Hang a small claw weight on ravel cord across 4 needles. Knit 5 rows as for I-cord, always going the same direction, letting the yarn pull in front across the sts after each row. I do them by hand instead of taking the carriage off the bed each time for so few sts. Increase 1 st on one edge and knit 7 more rows. Move the outside st on each edge in one needle so there are only 3 sts, knit the row, pulling the sts larger. Bind them off as described in the ear and pull about an 8" tail thru the last st. Use that tail to sew the tusk onto the hat. Thread the beginning tail onto a yarn needle and run it thru the loops at the beginning before removing the ravel cord. Draw up those sts, go thru them a second time from the same direction to pull them into a point, then run the end up inside the knitting and cut off the excess. Make the second tusk with the increase on the opposite side so any curving will make them symmetric. EYES: (Make 2) With white and a G crochet hook, ch 4, join. Work sc around in loop and join. I didn't count, just worked what I could get in and still lay flat, about 8. Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each sc, half way around circle. End off, slip st the last loop down. Leave long tail to sew on eye. EYE CENTER: (Make 2) With black, ch 4, leaving about 6" off first loop, join, end off, leaving another 6". Thread 1 black tail thru center of white and the other through work toward bottom edge and tie together behind. The half rnd of white is the top of the eye, the black is on lower half so elephant looks down. Peanut: (optional) Use KP 2 with a tan worsted weight yarn. Start with 5 sts, knit 2 rows. Increase 1 st on each edge. Knit 1 row, increase 1 st on each edge, knit 2 rows. Decrease 4 sts across row by moving every other st to an adjacent needle then moving all the sts in to close up the gaps, knit 3 rows. Increase 4 sts across row by moving all sts so there is an empty needle bewteen each of them and hang a purl bump from the st next to it on each empty needle, knit 2 rows. Decrease 1 st each edge, knit 1 row. Decrease 1 st each edge, knit 2 rows. Use the yarn tail to draw up the sts on one end of the peanut and sew up the side seam. Leave the purl side showing. Stuff the peanut with something soft, such as batting or a used fabric softener sheet. Use the other yarn tail to draw up the other end of the peanut. Bring yarn ends to center of peanut from the back side and tie it to the tip of the trunk through the sts, then hide them inside the hat tail. Ann in Tenn
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Author : Steph Thornton.
Last modified on : 12th November 2000.