Bond Machine Knitting - Edgings

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:44:13 -0700
From: "The Boudreau's" (patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca)
Subject: [BOND] Braids and Trims for Afghans etc.

Afghan Trim:-  

Rehang 3 stitches of finished afghan on needlframe.
Knit 6 rows, carriage on right.
Pick up next 3 stitches and hang them on the three
stitches you still have on the needleframe.
Knit 6 rows.
Pick up next 3 stitches and hang them on the three
stitches you just rehung on the frame.
Repeat around for a scalloped edge. 

If this sounds complicated draw a square, and draw scallops around the 
square.  You will then see that you start with three stitches, knit 6 rows, 
repeat around the entire afghan.  Try it on your tension square and then 
save it as a lovely facecloth or now is the time to start that book where you 
save the techniques in plastic three ring holders with the sample on the inside 
front and the directions facing on the back page out.  Then tape shut and just 
remove the sheet when you need a refresher course on the technique.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hearts:-

Cast on 10 stitches.
* Knit 10 rows.
Pick up lower right hand stitch of first cast on row and hang on first
needle right side of "0"
Pick up lower left hand stitch of first cast on row and hang on first needle
left side of "0"
Knit 10 rows*
Repeat for desired length.

If this sounds complicated draw a square.  In the middle of
the top of the square put a "0"--on the bottom of the square put a dot on
the lefthand corner and one on the righthand corner.  Put a "1" each side of
"0" at the top.  Draw a line from the dot on the bottom left to the "1" on
the lefthandside of "0", draw a line from dot on the bottom right to the "1"
on the righthand side of "0".  You may change colours every ten rows if
desired.   A picture really helps, so sketch it out and file it in the
technique folder.

-----------------------------------

Irish Swirl:-

Cast on 10 stitches.
* Knit 10 rows.
Pick up bottom right stitch and hook in onto the last need on left hand side.
Knit 10 rows.
Pick up bottom left hand stitch and hook it onto far right needle*.
Compete for desired length.

        Now to draw a picture, draw a rectangle on its side, put a dot at
the centre of the long side, put a dot in each corner at the bottom of the
opposite long side.  Draw an arrow from bottom left to far right.   Draw
another rectangle on top of this, put a dot in each corner at the bottom of
the longside just finished.  Put a dot in the centre of the long side just
drawn.  Draw an arrom from the bottom right to far left....repeat left then
right every ten rows.

        File in technique folder.

-----------------------------------------------------

Note:-  Most of these trims except for the scallop unless you knit a base
strip can be used with heavier weight yarns to make headbands and lovely
sititched on already knit garments or over seams on colour/blocked pillows,
afghans or sweaters.  

        Have fun bonding and sharing on the net.

Linda
patrick.boudreau@ns.sympatico.ca      
North Kentville Knits " Where knitting is still considered an art."
                                

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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 10:26:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [BOND] Newbie

Hello to all.  I got my ISM last Feb.  So far I have only made the sweaters
from the pattern book that came with it.(pull over sweaters.)  Since I don't
have anymore patterns, as of yet, I decided to buy some lace trim.  One
sweater that I did was pale yellow, with a white lacey ruffle that had yellow
beads going down the middle of the ruffle, that I then sewed around the
bottom of the neck rib and also down the middle of the sweater.

I have just been making sweaters for my three girls using different color
yarns and also different trim.  I made one sweater for myself but I didn't
like it after it was done.  It was light blue with a cable down the center.
 I hate it.  It looks so plane compared to the ones I made for my girls.

Oh well....  Does anyone else use trim like this?        Essex68

------------------------

Date:          Tue, 12 Aug 1997 00:28:17 +1000
From:          Val Paino (val@cia.com.au)
Subject:       Mock heart trim

There's a trim that resembles the Heart Trim, but is much
quicker and easier to knit.  I've only knitted it in finer yarns 
on a standard gauge, so let me just guess at this - it would 
have different numbers for different yarns anyway.

You need an odd number of stitches, sufficient for about a 1
inch width in your yarn.  For a sample, knit a few rows, 
transfer the centre stitch to one side - i.e. a lace hole - and 
knit say 1.5"/3.5cm, make another lace hole and so on.  Try 
about 10 lace holes, take off the machine, fasten off, perhaps 
by just threading the yarn through the open stitches.  Then 
with the plain side facing, push the fastened-off end through 
the first hole. from the back, draw through, then through the 
next hole and draw through, and so on.  First saw it in an 
old Brother book, in angora, with a tiny pearl bead in the 
centre of each segment, and it was most effective.  I've also
seen it with the purl side used as the "right" side, which
meant starting the threading-through with the purl side facing.

It is sewn on flat, rather than a fold-over edging.

Val
Sydney Australia
 val@cia.com.au

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Date: Thu, 14 Aug 1997 19:26:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: Val2571214@aol.com
Subject: [BOND] Re: bond-digest V1 #36

I made that afghan in the book included with the ism, the one with the loopy
braided border joining 5 panels.  I have made one already, and am finishing
the second, in Red Heart Aran Super Saver, Keyplate 4, for wedding presents.
 I also go around the outside edge 1 row with single crochet, the second row
with popcorns in every other stitch of the single crochet row, and finish up
by doing another row of single crochet....  Has a very "crunchy" look and
feel.  Great for cold nights!!  If you haven't tried this one yet because of
the weird joining for the panels, give it a shot!  The directions are a lot
harder to read than they are to follow.  :)

Valarie in Tennessee

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Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 04:56:09 -0700
From: styxer@cyberhighway.net
Subject: Re: [BOND] edgings

One of the more effective crochet edgings I've done in simple stitches is
to make a picot edge by figuring out how many st across and dividing it
evenly into plain sc and picot.

Each corner st gets 3 sc in it, with the middle sc being the picot st, so
remember to figure this in when placing picots.

The picot is very simple...sc to where you want to put picot, *(sc in that
st, ch 3, and then sl st into sc just finished), sc to next picot spot,
repeat from * around.  Of course, I usually use this when working with
thread to dress up a plain placemat or filet crochet piece.

If doing a placemat for Christmas, how about finding out how many picots
you're going to place, and the threading a contrast color with the
appropriate number of beads, sliding a bead up into place in the middle st
of the ch 3 of the picot.  That way each point will have a bit of added
sparkle.

Another picot that is done is simply to ch 3 where you want a picot and
then go on to the next sc, but I found that it just makes the piece look
lumpy or puckered, and the other picot where you ch 3 and then sc in the sc
you did in the picot's place is too bulky for my taste.

Hope it helps!

Julie (the Styx fan)
styxer@cyberhighway.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 15:10:05 -0600
From: "Ann Yotter" (gyotter@nash.tds.net)
Subject: Re: [BOND] I-Cord on the ISM

> years ago.  I never made it, but isn't it open but curls over. The open
> edge make it easy to attach as a binding to edges like you would use bias
> tape.  Does anyone make this  on the ISM?
> 

I made one of these to edge an afghan with.  Made it 4 sts wide and put a
needle in NWP and 1 more st at one side, then unraveled the 1 st to make
the loops to weave it along the edge of the afghan.  Did it so the curl was
opposite what the afghan tried to curl.  Made a nice edge.  Did it in the
contrasting color of 2 of the 5 panels.
  The magicord makes a closed tube, tho.
What we are talking about for a magicord hem is to make the cord, then hang
it on the needles and start knitting off it so it is the bottom edge.  I
haven't tried it yet, but sonds interesting.  I have to find some sport
weight yarn in something besides baby colors first.
Ann in Tenn
gyotter@nash.tds.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 22:29:17 +0000
From: Jenny Kosarew (jkos@escher.demon.co.uk)
Subject: Re: [BOND] I-Cord on the ISM

TinaNH@aol.com wrote:
>You can do this, but it's kind of a hassle.  After you knit a row, you pick
>up the carriage and move it back to the other side of the bed.  Keep knitting
>in this way for the desired length.

You don't have to pick up the carriage, just pull the needles out to HP
for the return row, then push them back to FWP for the knitted row.

>This only works if the I cord is a few sts (3-4 ?) wide, otherwise you end up
>w/ floats that turn into loose sts when you take it off the machine.

But you can latch up that ladder just as you latch up rib, except that
you are doing it from the right side of the fabric.

Barbara  wrote:
>Just what does the   "I"   in I-Cord....mean?.......feeling foolish

Or even ... I-diotic?  ;-)

The I is for idiot, either because even an idiot can make it, or because
only an idiot would try, or you'll end up an idiot after (hand-)knitting
yards of it ... take your pick, sources vary.  

And Christine asked about using it as a hem/border - two ways spring to
mind.  You can either knit the garment (perhaps leaving the starting and
ending rows open), then knit the I-cord and attach it around the article
'seam-as-you-go.  Alternatively, you can start by knitting the I-cord,
then cast on for the garment piece, hang some of the I-cord on the
needles (work out how many I-cord rows to how many needles from a
swatch) and start knitting, joining the I-cord to the sides by seam-as-
you-go, then graft the top edge.

-- 
      Jenny Kosarew                  jkos@escher.demon.co.uk
 from Berkshire, England      http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/3968/
                             http://www.escher.demon.co.uk/Bond_Gallery/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 03:36:00 -0500
From: Heidi Stepp (rhstepp@snowhill.com)
Subject: [BOND] Scallops on the Bond

I didn't see the fall issue of Interweave Knits but I played around with
scalloped edgings on the Bond today.
This is what I came up with after looking at several books:

Cast on about 30 stitches.  Knit with waste yarn for several rows,
preferrably with contrasting yarn.  Now do an e-wrap cast-on with the main
yarn and knit one row.  *Starting on either side, push the fifth needle,
then every tenth needle to holding position.  With transfer tool move the
stitches on the needles in holding position to the needles on the left,
these now have two stitches on them.

Now transfer each stitch that is on the needle to the left of the one with
the two stitches to that same needle, so these now have three stitches on
them.  

With the three prong transfer tool, move three stitches on each side of the
needle with the three stitches on it over by one needle, filling the
previously empty needles on both sides of it.

There are now groups of seven stitches (I am counting the one with the
three stitches on it as one) with one empty needle on each side and one
single stitch in the center separating them.

With the single prong transfer tool, move one purl bump from the last
needle (from the row below) of each 7-stitch group to the empty needle on
each side of the single stitch so that all needles now have a stitch on them.
Knit 2 rows.

Repeat from * two more times.  Then continue in regular stockinet stitch.  

You could increase the width of the scallops by having 11 stitches between
them instead of the 9 above and then transferring four stitches towards the
center three stitches or you could make them narrower by having only 7
stitches between them and then only transferring two towards the center.  I
haven't tried that out yet but I'm sure that would work too.

I did my swatch with keyplate 2 and a sportsweight yarn but worsted weight
should work as well.  Maybe a row of crochet around the edge would be nice
too, even in a contrasting yarn.  Right now my swatch is curling but I
haven't blocked it yet.

I hope you can understand my directions, it's so much easier to show than
to tell! :) 

Bye for now,
Heidi in Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 11:32:37 -0500
From: "Ann Yotter" 
Subject: [BOND] afghan edging

The braided edging is done just like the rest of the afghan, but the
"panel" is only 6 sts wide.  The 2nd needle in from one edge is left in NWP
to form a ladder.  You unravel the edge st and ladder to get the loops to
weave together and you use groups of 2 loops.  (That beginner afghan
unravels 2 edge sts and uses 3 loops in a group.  I tried that edging on
one afghan and thought it was too loose and floppy. {I was using a pretty
soft yarn like Dazzelaire - a firmer  yarn like Red Heart might not do
that.} Go with shorter loops.  On the beginner afghan that will mean
changing the 2 outside panels and leaving the 2nd st in from the edge in
NWP - or just do the whole afgahn like that.  The joining will be a little
closer is all.)

The extra 4 sts will roll into a mock I-cord at the edge.  You want to
remember to do the  2 edgings in mirror images (If you use a needle in NWP
to form a ladder, one will use #2 and the other #5.  Same when you bind
off.  Leave sts 1&2 free on one, sts 5&6 free on the other.) and apply the
edging so the purl side is showing.  When it rolls forward, the knit will
show.  That way the rolling on the edges works opposite each other and they
kinda cancel out.  It will still roll at first, but relaxes after it has
been steamed and/or washed.

Newbies  -  when you work the braiding, only undo  the loops you are
actually using.  The beginner book reads like you unravel the whole edge,
then go back and weave.  NOT!  Been there, done that, disaster!  Put the
crochet hook or latch tool under the strand between the edge st and the
next st and pull gently.  Sts on 2 rows will undo to form a loop on your
tool.  Take 2 or 3 loops from each panel and pull the second group thru the
first group already on the tool.  Then go back to the first panel for more
loops.

The worm edging I tried on the ends was nice.  I got it off a web site last
year and I think the old Mother Goose site used to have it also.  I think
it is also in Hand Manipulated Stitches and goes by several names, none of
which I can think of off the top of my head.

Anyway, starting at one corner, you hang 3 sts of your edge, knit 6 rows,
hang the next 3 sts of your edge on the same needles (there are now 2 sts
on each needle and a loop formed by those first 6 rows of work.  Knit 6
rows again.  You just attached the first loop end down and started another
loop.  Keep working along your edge.  It makes a series of scallops.  You
can vary the number of sts used and the rows worked to get different looks.
 Have the right side of your main work facing you when your rehang to work
the edging.  This looks a little fancier than just a band of crochet, even
one with a shell worked on the edge of the crochet, but isn't the hassle of
loose fringe when using it.  Jackie ( the girl I did it for) and I were
very pleased with the look.

Ann in Tenn
gyotter@nash.tds.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 12:45:03 -0500
From: "Ann Yotter" 
Subject: Re: [BOND] afgan......

  You might also work a garter st border on the outside edges.  Convert
about 6 sts when the carriage is on that side.  Each row will have
conversions, but the side will alternate.  I did one with 4 sts and it
needed to be a little wider.  I also did one where I converted sts, but did
them every other row and only did every other st in 5 or 6 sts.  Makes a
moss or seed st type of pattern.  that did pretty good.  You still need to
steam it, but the curl should relax with use and washing. 

 You can also do a shaker rib along the edge, about 3 of them, to stop
rolling.  Ravel down, then latch back up, but only do every other ladder. 
I did this on a baby security blanket.  I thought it pulled up the side a
little shorter, tho.  Maybe if you unraveled 2 adjacent sts but only
latched up one large st it wouldn't pull up the edge.  I've seen that done
somewhere.  If there seems to be too much yarn, latch up every 3rd ladder.
You put the latch tool behind the ladders to reach up and pull the loops in
front over the ladders so they are encased in the rib.

Ann in Tenn
gyotter@nash.tds.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 11:03:53 -0700
From: "Adams" 
Subject: Re: [BOND] Andrea's Fan Skirt Edging

A simple "shell" crocheted around the bottom of your skirt would
create the look of upside-down fans.  Not being familiar with the gauge of
the yarn or the cast-on, I can't tell you how to space them, but just single
crochet in the edge, *skip at least 1 stitch; double- or triple-crochet 5,
7, or 9 times in the next stitch; skip at least 1 stitch; single crochet in
next stitch*.  Repeat between *'s around the bottom or the skirt.  If you
want it lacier, chain between each single & double or triple crochet.  Will
this help?  If you can do a single and double crochet, that's all you'd
need!

Patricia in the Black Hills of SD
adamst@mato.com
------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 13:24:55 -0700
From: "Dan and Judy Bartel" 
Subject: Re: [BOND] inspiration please!

Something fun to try is lace edgings. 

Example: Cast on 4 needles. Carriage on right. 
Knit one row R to L bring one needle into work on the right side,
transfer stitch #3 on right side to needle #4. *Knit 2 rows( 5 needles
in work) bring one needle into work on right side, transfer second needle
on the right to the third needle. * continue until 10 needles are in work.
Knit 2 rows, decrease 1 stitch. After decreasing one stitch on the right ,
transfer new stitch #3 on right to needle #2, knit 2 rows until 4
stitches are left. 
Continue from the beginning increasing out to 10 and back down
to 4 for the length of edging desired. 

The edging can be knit in sew as you go or be attached after the length is knit. 
You can vary the lace by adding eyelets to the wider areas or change the direction 
the stitches are transferred.

vvvv
vovv
vvovv
vvvvv
vvvovv
vvvvvv
vvvvovv
vvvvvvv
vvvvvovv
vvvvvvvv
vvvovovv
vvvvvvvvv
vvvvovovv
vvvvvvvvvv
vvvvovovv
vvvvvvvvv
vvvovovv
vvvvvvvv
vvvvovv
vvvvvvv
vvvovv
vvvvvv
vvvv

Enjoy! Judith Bartel

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Author : Steph Thornton.
Last modified on : 2nd may 2000.