Bond Machine Knitting - Cast-Ons
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 07:18:48 -0400
From: lpelt@juno.com
Subject: Re: [BOND] Double E wrap
For the Double E-Wrap cast on:
First make the first wrap on the left most needle as usual.
Bring the yarn UNDER the second needle then OVER the first needle.
Hand knit the first needle. You should have 1 stitch (sorta) on the
first needle and a wrap of yarn on the second.
Bring the yarn UNDER second and third needles and OVER the third.
Knit the second needle by hand.
Then continue this way down the bed.
It sounds harder than it really is. Just go slowly and you'll be fine.
I keep the printed directions at my machine because if I get distracted,
I totally forget what I am doing!
If this is as clear as mud, e-mail me and I'll try to do better!
Laura
lpelt@juno.com
Jacksonville, Florida
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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:45:30 -0500
From: "Ann Yotter"
Subject: Re: [BOND] Double E wrap
I'm only guessing here, but the e-wrap gives a little loopy, loose edge. I
seldom use it because of the look. Perhaps the double e-wrap with 2 sts
worked into each wrap gives a firmer finished edge at the start that isn't
so floppy. Also, you would have more control over the yarn since you can't
pull the e-wrap tight as you do it - the hook still must be able to work
thru the loop. On a double e-wrap, you can wrap much more exactly, as the
yarn is held on both sides by a needle and still open for the needles to
knit thru. You can snug the yarn down for more control of the loop.
A B C D E F G
It helps to draw the loops to see it. I did both types on a paper.
Your double "e"s will loop around AB, then BC, then CD, then DE, etc.
Notice that each needle has yarn pulling on both sides of it, but it isn't
the same strand of yarn. Each loop will be held open by 2 needles so it
can be knitted thru instead of a needle being "strangled" by a tight single
loop. The loops formed are going to overlap each other across the row,
like a strand of chain links. (no reference to chain sts, just an
observation looking at my drawing on paper that appears to be row of
interlocking loops like a chain)
Ann in Tenn
gyotter@nash.tds.net
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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 09:40:11 -0700
From: airgems@mcsi.net (Kathleen Miller)
Subject: [BOND] double e-wrap
This is to give extra stability to the crotch seam. It is often used on
the back at the neck of sweaters in the ones I use. It helps to keep it
from stretching out. Invaluable in the crotch I'd say.
Kitty Miller
airgems@mcsi.net
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Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 12:59:39 -0700
From: Debbie
Subject: Re: [BOND] Double E wrap
- --
There is an explaination in the 301 Hints book that sound like a double
wrap. If the person who needed that didn't get it yet email me and I
type it out for you(and the group if more want it)
Debbie in AZ
Personal - allsleepy@home.com
ICQ - http://wwp.mirabilis.com/3196224
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Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 03:57:29 -0400
From: "The Yarn Kollection"
Subject: Re: [BOND] Double E wrap
It creates a firmer and sturdier cast on, very nice actually.
Mary
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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 23:26:40 -0500
From: "Ann Yotter"
Subject: [BOND] another e-wrap
After the recent talk about the double e-wrap, I ran across and tried a fig
8 e-wrap in , I think in a hint column in one of the old Keyplate News.
(I'm not sure, as I just spent this week going thru every old mag and
pattern book searching for a sweater pattern and I'm sort of blurred where
it was.)
Anyway, this was a no-roll edge e-wrap. I knitted it up and it looks nice.
I even did it reversed upside down for a different look.
1 2 3 4 5
To do it, you take the yarn over 1, under 2, over 2, under 1, over 1,
*under 2 & 3, over 3, under 2, over 2, under 3 & 4.*
Repeat across the row, follwoing the pattern between the *s, making a fig
8 (laying on its side) around 2 needles, then going under 2 to move the
fig 8 over to the next set of needles. Work the first row by hand so you
don't drop sts. Nice looking edge.
I really should look thru my books more often.
Ann in Tenn
gyotter@nash.tds.net
------------------------------
From: "gyotter" gyotter@nash.tds.net
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 3:59 PM
Subject: RE: [BOND] various cast-ons
Each of these cast-on's gives a little different edge.
Fern demo'd a triple e-wrap where she did a simple e-wrap but used 3
strands of yarn for it. It gave a fat roll along the edge that seems to lay
fairly flat. You must work the first row back down the cast-on by hand.
Only use 1 strand after making the wraps.
A double e-wrap goes as follows:
1234567890
Twist the yarn around needles 1-2 in an e just like a regular e-wrap, but
go under 1,2 AND 3 before you come up between 3 and 4. Loop back over 3 and
2, down between 1 and 2, under 2,3 and 4, up between 4&5, over 4 and 3, down
between 2&3, under 3,4&5, etc...
The pattern is: go over the top backwards over 2 needles, forward under 3
needles each time (except for the first e and the last one)
You can see that you are making an e, but each time it is around 2
needles, so every needle is included in 2 different e's that overlap. that helps
hold the e's open so knitting is easier on the next row. More give on the
finished edge, a little different look.
Figure 8 e-wrap:
This one makes an 8 laying on its side around the needles
1234567
Come up between 2&3, go over the top of 2 and under 1, go back over 1 and
down between 1&2, go under 2&3, up between 3&4, down between 2&3, up
between 1&2, over the top of 2, under 3&4, over the top of 4 under 3, over the top
of 3, under 4&5, over the top of 5, under 4, back over the top of 4, under
5&6, etc.
Slightly different look to the edge, sort of a braided look.
Crochet cast-on:
This makes a chain along one side of the needles. It goes quickly and can
also be used as a design feature for a horizontal line on the work or
doubled up several times to make a non-roll edge.
Use a J crochet hook. That makes the loops the right size and is about
the spacing between needles on the machine. (this can be done with a latch
tool, but you will have to watch that the loop doesn't close down on the shank
of the tool - with a hook, that won't happen)
Push all the needles forward to HP.
Make a slip loop on the crochet hook, leaving a yarn tail as noted by your
pattern. Hold the hook under the needles and the yarn leading to the
skein on top of the needles. Reach up between the 2 end needles on the far left
side and wrap the yarn around the end needle and over its top. Pull a
loop down between 1&2 and thru the loop already on the hook. Move the hook
over to the next space to the right and pull a loop down between 2&3 and thru
the loop on the hook. Keep moving the hook to the right until you reach
the right edge needle. Place the loop onto it. You will have a single strand
on the top of every needle and if you look on the bottom of them, you will
see 2 strands interlocked to form a chain running along the underside.
Knit the first row by hand. The chain will show along the edge and lay toward
the P side of the work.
To make a decorative edge: Knit the first row so the yarn is back at the
left edge. Twist the yarn around the hook to get a loop on it and stick
it up between the first 2 needles on the edge and work the cast on again.
Knit back by hand. You can make 4-5 rows of this to form a flat edging on the
work. when worked this way, it will show on the P side. If you want it
to show on the right side either
1) turn the work using a garter bar or by rehanging the sts before you
begin to knit the main body of the work or:
2) When you pull the needles to HP to make the 2nd and succeeding rows,
leave the sts in the hooks and work behind the knitting. This is awkward
when learning, but eliminates turning the work to get the edge onto the
front.
Another thing to know about this. You can work with the hook on top and
the chain will form on the top of the needles. When the chain is made
anywhere besides the very edge, it has a very slight lean to it. Not noticeable
unless you happen to get both types. Chain on the bottom of the needles
leans to toward the edge. Chain on the top leans away from the edge. It
could make a difference in the look if you are using the chain as a
decorative element in the middle of somethig to form a horizontal line.
Alternating them along an edge will make it form a fat roll, not lay
flat - ask me how I know this! LOL) Mostly, be consistent.
Matching bindoff:
Pull the needles with the work left in the ooks to HP so you can get your
hands behind the work. (Try to end up on the right if you are right
handed.) Twist the yarn around a crochet hook to form a loop at the right edge,
then pull a loop thru the first st And the one on the hook. Move to the next
st and repeat. Just keep chaining across. It goes fast and leaves a chain
along the edge. Nice for seeing the sts to work a finished edge later,
like on an afghan. But... (there's always a "but"!) If you hold the hook on
the side facing you, you get a purl bump on that last row. I never pay
attention to that on an afghan, but for a garment, not good. then you
need to work the chain with the hook behind the work and that isn't very handy.
Maybe for a few sts, it isn't bad. But I love the bind-off because it
goes so quickly and it holds the sts spaced apart so they don't draw up. In
fact you need to watch you don't let it flare a little because the edge is
going to draw in some when taken off the needles and the chain won't unless you
pull it a little tight. The cahin at first will appear to be on one side
when take off the machine, but just rub the sts with your fingers and they
will migrate over the very edge.
Ann in Tenn
gyotter@nash.tds.net
Author : Steph Thornton.
Last modified on : 11th June 2000.
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